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Need info on glove fitting

Rabia | Posted in Fitting on

I have been putting together the Threads glove pattern, but I need advice on how to FIT them. I always have trouble getting gloves that fit properly. I seem to have a LOW thumb; there is always a problem with the glove thumb sitting TOO HIGH between my thumb and forefinger. Should I just move the gouch/bolton tongue down a bit on the pattern? Is there a formula for determining where to put it so that it is positioned properly? Do you think if I wrote to Mr. Koch he would reply?

Replies

  1. User avater
    CostumerVal | | #1

    Yes, you can use the same slash and spread method on a glove pattern that you can on a dress pattern. Try putting your hand on a piece of paper with the edge lined up along your forefinger to the bump above the wrist and make pencil marks where your thumb leaves the edge of the paper. You can use it as a ruler against Koch's pattern to check placement. Use the finger tip as the measurement reference point.

    I hope I've helped you out.

    Val

  2. KharminJ | | #2

    Rabia ~
    I've no personal
    Rabia ~

    I've no personal experience w/ Mr. Koch, but I'm sure he won't 'bite your head off' if you did write ;)

    If there's no direct contact info in the article, you could always address him "C/O Threads".

    Perhaps he would do a follow-up article about "altering the gloves" - most of the joy of made-it-myself is that it (whatever 'it' is) FITS!!

    (My fingers are usually much longer than RTW gloves are designed for, and I have long fingernails and large rings, so there are several points where I would make adjustments, too)

    Bright Blessings, and please let us know what answer you get!!

    Kharmin

  3. John Koch | | #3

    I am always happy to help Threads readers with glove construction problems. I can be reached at: [email protected] Please put 'Gloves' in the subject line. I promise I won't bite. John Koch

    1. KharminJ | | #4

      LOL!

      There ya go, Rabia!

      Thank you, sir!

      Bright Blessings!

      Kharmin

  4. Rabia | | #5

    mr Koch DID in fact get back to me...inside of 24 hours! I posted his good advice in the 'glove article", but I will put it here, too! As it turned out, my problem was due to short fingers..once I lengthened the fingers on the pattern, no more problems!Also, pay attention to the proportion of YOUR OWN fingers relative to the ones on pattern; my forefinger is almost as long as my middle finger, but on the pattern it's WAAAY shorter.

    Here is J.K.'s advice:

    Thank you for your kind words. I will do what I can to help you with your dilemma. Often the problem with fit is either the fingers are too short, the thumb is too short or the gouch is improperly located. In adjusting a glove pattern it's the same as making a muslin before constructing a dress. It allows you to correct the fit first. To lengthen a finger or thumb I first draw the entire pattern on a piece of paper.

    I then determine which finger(s) need to lengthened/shortened. Generally, I increase in 1/4" increments. Make a mark 1/4" above the finger(s) to be adjusted, slide the pattern up to meet the mark and re-draw the tip of the finger(s). Remove the pattern and blend the lines into the side of the original finger. Be sure to scratch out the old lines to avoid confusion and don't forget to adjust the opposing finger on the other side of this trank. To shorten, I try on the sample glove and pinch the tip to see how much to shorten. Don't forget to leave the seam allowance.

    Say for example, you can pinch 5/16" excess. You would not shorten it 5/16" but rather 5/16" less 1/16" (or so) seam allowance or 4/16". Does this make any sense? It sounds as though you have already determined that the fingers are too short but in addition to that your thumb is located farther down on your hand.

    I would retrace the gouch approx. 3/8" lower to start, make a sample glove basting it together and try it on. From this adjustment you will see if any more corrections need be made. Often it's a trial and error effort.

    Remember that in glovemaking you are dealing with minutiae. The smallest adjustment can bring about big changes. I'm sure there are people out there that could do all this mathematically, but I was self-taught and just learned the hard way. You learn a lot more. It may take you a few times but in the end you will have a great pattern. It becomes easier in time.

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