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New to Sewing with Mohair

sewingup | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Greetings Ladies:

I am new to this discussion, not a novice, but I am a novice when it comes to sewing with mohair.  I am sure there is someone on this site that has sewn with mohair, and can give me wonderful recommendations.

I am making a coat and also a jacket out of mohair, and I am not sure what type of interfacing to use.  I have been told to never put an iron to mohair because it stretches so easily.  Some say to use iron-on textured weft, others say to use sew-in weft, and others say only to use a woven interfacing just for the collar, lapels and down the front of the jacket, then line as usual.

It seems to me that if I used the iron-on weft and carefully and slowly ironed the weft in place, then let the fabric dry on the ironing board before I move it, then I should be okay.  What do you think?

Oh dear, so many options, and I just don’t know what is the best method.  I got one of the pieces of mohair at Britex when I was in San Francisco.  I bought an end piece, just enough to make a coat, but the original price was $125 a yard.  Of course, I didn’t pay that much, but still I don’t want to ruin good fabric.

If you have any suggestion for interfacing mohair please let me know, and please let me know where I can get the product you are speaking of.

Thank you all and I sure will appreciate hearing from you.












  1. FitnessNut | | #1

    Whenever I'm using a new-to-me fabric, I always use scraps to test techniques for pressing, stitching and interfacing. Do you have enough fabric to make test swatches with several different types and weights of interfacing? That would answer your questions pretty quickly. If you do wish to use a fusible, I highly recommend that you consider block fusing your fabric prior to cutting out. This prevents shrinkage from the fusing process from affecting the finished size of your cut pieces. This technique has been a life saver for me and now I wouldn't dream of cutting and fusing individual pieces ever again.

    Let us know what methods work well with your mohair. We're all interested ;-)

    1. sewingup | | #2

      Hi Susan:

      Marvelous and great idea to fuse the interfacing to the fabric before I cut it out.  That method makes absolute sense.  I may waste some interfacing, but it sure is worth it.

      I have written to many stores that carry mohair, most are blends though, and hope that I get a reply saying whether or not to use the iron-on weft or some sort of interfacing that I sew in for the whole coat, then some other kind of interfacing for the collar, lapels and down the front of the coat. or maybe even hair canvas for those areas.    Some say the iron-on weft works great and keeps the mohair from stretching out, others say never to touch an iron to mohair because it will stretch it out.  They recommend finger pressing seams and such.  To me, if I do use an iron and let the fabric completely dry and cool before I move it to iron another area, then I really shouldn't have a problem.  For the regular lining I'll use Kasha flannel backed satin.

      Whatever method I use, I'll certainly keep notes on each and every step, supplies and where I got them and let you know.  If it works out well, I can share my notes with all of you so that you don't have to go through the research I have had to do just to work on mohair.

      I will definitely use Tire silk thread in the 50 weight.  I have white for summer and black for winter, and it is very strong, expensive, but it sinks into the fibers and you can hardly see it.  For this coat, a wine color, I'll send a sample to Things Japanese and ask them to match it up.  They are wonderful to work with.







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