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off-graining a coat front

nettie | Posted in Fitting on

I need to know the correct way to off-grain a coat front that hangs open when I walk.  Do any of you know how to do this?  Waaay back in my clouded mind I recall snippets of information but don’t want to take chances.  Do you put the 3/4 inch at the hem of the coat and taper a new seamline to the neckline of the coat?  HELP!




  1. lovestosew | | #1

    Sandra Betzina's excellent books Power Sewing & More Power Sewing have great tips on "walking ease" that you add to garments so no "gaposis" occurs. Very clear & easy to understand directions - do you have those books by any chance? If not, I can easily type the directions up for you - no problem.

    1. nettie | | #2


      No, I don't have the Betzina books and would very much appreciate the instructions.

      Thank you.

      1. lovestosew | | #3

        Hi Nettie,
        I am so sorry but I think it might be more helpful if I actually photocopied the instructions and mailed them to you (if you care for that option). I had completely forgotten that there was a nice little illustration that accompanied the "walking ease" instructions. It's so much easier & clearer to have both an explanation & illustration - makes it easier to understand the technique. If our printer hadn't died last year, I could have just scanned the two pages & sent them off to you right away. Anyway, let me know which option you prefer - with illustration or without.

  2. TJSEWS | | #4

    In case you want an additional source to the Betzina articles, this issue is also clearly addressed with lots of illustrations in the book Couture:  The Art of Fine Sewing by Roberta Carr, pages 49 to 51, softcover edition, 2nd printing 1994.  You can find the book at Amazon.com or from the Palmer Pletsch website.

    1. nettie | | #5

      Thanks.  This book I have.  Appreciate your input.

  3. stitchintime | | #6

    FYI - if you only want to send a personal message, scroll down to below the bottom of the message box when you are composing a reply. Beneath "post", "preview", "spell check" etc. are 2 options: 1. post to the message board for all to read or 2. reply via email. Click next to reply via email and only the one recipient you want will get a personal message from you. This will avoid putting your email address "out there".

    You can go back and delete your posted message with your email if you like by clicking on delete. Delete and edit are only available to you on messages you post.

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