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one-way stretch super suede /how to cut?

Cookie | Posted in The Archives on

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I recently purchased several pieces of a lycra/poly blend labeled stretch super suede and would like to make slim fitting pants. This fabric has cross-grain stretch, a beautiful drape and a satin finish back. It was sold in a national chain fabric store in a heavier weight for fall and lighter weight this spring. I have always used the stretch going around the body but have a purchased pair of stirrup jean-style pants that have the stretch going up/down. I have mastered sewing with the fabric itself but the one-way stretch and slim fit cut of the pant is my concern. Would the fact that my purchased pair have stirrups determine the direction for the stretch? Can anyone give me any advise before I cut into it.

Replies

  1. Diane | | #1

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    Stirrup pants need to be cut with lengthwise stretch or you won't be able to bend your knees. This won't be a problem if your suede has a multi-directional nap but if it has a definite up and down nap you will have trouble cutting it crosswise. If this is the case, just cut slim pants with no stirrups.

    1. Peg_Stallings | | #2

      *The best fabric for stirrup pants is one with 2-way stretch.. but this fabric will still work. You won't have the same look (taunt stretch) and when you cut it, make the pants about 2" longer than you would with 2-way stretch fabric. Your pattern should tell you which type of stretch fabric is recommended. Any stretch fabric should always be cut with the greatest amount of stretch going around the body.If it has 2-way stretch, same rule applies. I've used both weights of the stretch suede that you are talking about. The only drawback that I have found with it is that it doesn't hold a crease at all..so I laid fusible thread along my crease line and fused in the crease. Worked great!

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