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Pant Alteration: CF Wrinkle below Zipper

user-164872 | Posted in Fitting on

I’m quite curvy – round in front, round in back – really round, and have what is considered a sway back.  I’m able to alter for all those, except this one little dastardly wrinkle! 

Often below the zipper (whether I’ve put one in or not) I end up with a wrinkle that runs parallel to my waist band.

Does anyone know what I can alter to fix that? 

Does it mean reducing the side seams on the front pieces?

Thanks!  I’ve been searching on-line and haven’t had much luck. 🙁


  1. jjgg | | #1

    is this a 'camel toe' you are talking about? Down near the crotch? What style of pants are you referring to? Jeans or looser slacks?

    1. user-164872 | | #2

      With pants, I seem end up with baggy 'look like a boy' crotch or super 'camel toe'. 

      It's the excess bulk below the zipper that concerns me.  Looks like I have a sock in my drawers and I'm a girl dang it!  If I grab below the zipper I get a knuckle's width of fabric between my thumb and forefinger.  From there, it wrinkles out toward my outer thighs.

      It doesn't seem to matter if it's athletic tights, jeans, or looser slacks

      Edited 9/11/2007 4:50 am ET by dancing queen

      1. User avater
        Becky-book | | #3

        do an Advanced Search for pants fitting, there has been a lot of good advice there, on this very problem!

      2. cat42 | | #4

        I think many women's pant patterns started out as mens pants. But women have a distinctly different crotch than men. I see many young women wearing stylish slacks that exhibit the problem you refer to, and I think it has to do with crotch depth on the front, and the design of the crotch curve.Try this: on your front pattern, draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to grain) from crotch point to sideseam, and mark that point on the SS. This is the crotch depth line, and should match your vertical crotch depth measured at your side when sitting on a hard flat surface. Align back SS with front and mark the same point on the back sideseam. Then draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to back grain) from that point on the SS across the pattern to the crotch area.The line on the back should be about 1/2 inch above the back crotch point. I know this sounds illogical, but it means that the front inseam is longer than the back inseam, requiring ease between crotch and knee. This improves fit.If you find that both front and back crotch depth lines pass through the crotch point, you will need to adjust. In your case, you would shorten on the front in the CF area only. Try this on the front (Others may need to make the opposite adjustment on the back):1. draw a horizontal line (perpendicular to grain) about 3-4 inches below the crotch point, from the inseam to the grain line.
        2. draw another horizontal line from CF to grain line, in the area where the CF is straight (but below the darts).
        3. Cut along line 1 from inseam to grain, then turn and cut upward along the grain line, stopping at line 2.
        4. Make a tuck in the pattern at line 2, folding out about 1/2 inch evenly across between CF and grain line.
        5. Fill in the gap by line 1 with tissue, and then true the inseam. Note that length at the SS is not altered, but the crotch depth line (through front crotch point) is raised.You may also need to adjust the crotch curve on the front. It should be mostly bias, with no horizontal part. (the back curve is sharper and has a definite horizontal part) There is an explanation of how to do this in an old Threads article. I don't have the exact issue, but it is Della Steineckert's reponse to a pant fitting question, adressing crotch curve and protruding derriere.

  2. fabricholic | | #5

    This is from Sandra Betzina's book. See if this applies. Lightweight fabric needs additional support to eliminate ripples in a zipper and prevent the fabric from pouching out at the bottom of the zipper. Cut a 1/2 inch strip of interfacing in the nonstretch direction, 1 inch longer than the zipper opening. Place one long edge of the strip beside the basting.

  3. DONNAKAYE | | #6

    The reference to your problem as a "camel toe" is a new one on me.  I have heard it referred to as a "front smile."  Question:  Is the center front seam on straight grain or is it off-grain?  Generally, an off-grain center front will result in this front "smile" at the location you're referring to . . . .

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