Hi, I’m fairly new to this gathering. I’m an experienced sewer, starting at age 4 and I”m now 58. I’m learning to draft patterns for my own designs, and also how to fit my middle-age overweight body. I’ve been struggling with fitting pants.
I am narrow side to side, but thick front to back (both a protruding tummy and rear), and that I am knock kneed. I make a knock-knee adjustment by straigtening the inseam for front and back leg, to be closer to vertical, then repositioning the crease lines so they are still centered on each leg piece from the knee down. I use the new creaseline for the grain line. I also cut with 1″ seam allowance along waist, side and inseams to allow room for fitting. Then I do a thread tracing along the front and back crease lines, and along the front and back hipline before fitting a pant, to ensure they stay level and on center.
Here’s my problem:
Everything hangs great while I fit the waist, hips, and side seams. I have to scoop out the back crotch seam a bit to get the back waist to be up on my waist and to keep the back hip line level.
But then when I sew the inseam, the front crease line moves about 1 inch toward the outside above the knee to the ankle; the back crease line moves the same amount toward the inside leg from just above the knee all the way down, causing a twist, and a drag line along the twist, between outside of buttock and knee. I’ve tried having the front leg narrower at the crotch (almost no scoop) and the back leg wider at crotch by the same amount, and that helps only a little.
Help! How can I get the crease lines to hang straight?