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Pants Fit (flat seat)

tobusy2cook | Posted in Fitting on

Hi!  I could use some advice on Pants Fit for a Flat Seat. 

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I have a flat rear and thicker waist my current muslin needs more fabric at the back zipper I have ~ 5/8 open gap.  I made a new muslin added fabric with seam allowance to the back zipper opening; that changed my crotch curve (now pants are worse than when I started). 

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If I make a change to the outside seam for the waist line to 2” down and make no change to the back zipper will that give me the fabric I need for the back zipper?

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  1. Beth | | #1

    My seat is also flat and while my adjustment isn't perfect, here's what I do. 1) make the back darts narrow and lengthen to about 4 inches. 2) Use a piece of romex electrical wire to outline my crotch curve from front waist to back waist. pin the pattern pieces front to back at the crotch point. then lay the romex inside this. Use this to fill in or expand the area that will be covered by pants. This is my own interpretation of Joyce Murphys pants fitting article in Threads.Hope this is helpful. I can't answer your question about more fabric for your zipper.

  2. User avater
    Thimblefingers | | #2

    I second Beth's suggestion.  Narrowing the back darts will get rid of the "bulge" for a more rounded seat and give you more room at the waist.  If you still need more room at the waistline, add it onto the side seams and taper to nothing at the hips if you have enough width there.

  3. Teaf5 | | #3

    In addition to the other two very good suggestions, you might want to drop the center back waistline about 1/2 to 1" (or tug up on the center back seam until the back drapes nicely). This helps my slacks hang much better over my flat rear.

  4. tobusy2cook | | #4

    Thanks for the great ideas!!!  I have requested Threads #122 from my library and will start with the addition to the outside seam and the crotch curve.  I will try all your wonderful suggestions and let you know how my test garment turns out!!  Thanks!

    1. NovaSkills | | #7

      The most important thing you can do to eliminate or lower (if that's all you need) the volume from back low hip and crotchline area is to turn the back crotch curve from a "J" shape to an "L" shape. Square off the part of the curve where it changes from being more upright to being more horizontal. A totally flat fanny would need almost a vertical line from center back waist to crotch level, and nearly a right angled bend at that point.

      Men's pants have less allowance for their fannies, and therefore more vertical center back seams and more L-shaped crotchlines.

  5. tobusy2cook | | #5

    Hi - I wanted to give you an update on my pants.  I ordered Sandra Betzina's CD on Pants Fitting - that was the ticket.  I also reviewed Joyce Murphy's article in Threads #122 - but didn't get how to adjust the crotch width space.

    The adjustments I made to the pattern following Sandra Betzina's CD:

    1" down from the crotch line I cut through the pattern from inseam to 1/2 from end,  overlaped (top down) 1/4" (total -1/2) to 0.

    2 sizes smaller on inseam back pattern piece tappering to original size to the knee.

    Clipped and stretched fabric from top of inseam to knee stitching with back leg fabric to the feed dog.

    Cut outside leg pieces with 1" seam allowance to adjust for fit. 

    I made a nice pair of pants and am currently working on a 2nd pair.

    Thanks! Jennifer


    1. woggy | | #6

      From what company did you order your dvd on pants fitting by Sandra Betzina?Thanks,Woggy

      1. tobusy2cook | | #8

        I ordered this on-line through her website http://www.sandrabetzina.com with S/H it was $35.00.  Well worth it!  Jennifer

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