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Pants:girth up, limited seam allowance..

rekha | Posted in Fitting on

I love this pair of pullup pants I made some years ago, but my waist and hips are now much bigger.

These pants have a flat front and elasticated back.

 I just wondered whether I could release the side seams and put a mock pocket that buttons up just at the side of centre front seam. I have a feeling that this procedure will cause the free part of the ‘pocket’ to pull out/down.

My second option would probably be to insert extra material at the back side seams so the new seam would be barely visible.

Any suggestions welcome.


  1. starzoe | | #1

    Have you considered releasing the side seams down to (maybe) the upper thigh and inserting a V-shaped section of fabric, a godet if you will.
    You may not want to make it obtrusive, but a row or two of topstitching could be a design element, therefore lifting your efforts out of the "alteration" mode into an original design.

    If you do this, take care to follow the grain lines on the fabric otherwise you will end up with a ripply, misfitting insertion.

    1. rekha | | #2

      How would the top of the waistband hold together?

      1. starzoe | | #3

        Takie the waistband off to insert the triangle and then replace the waistband. You wouldn't have to remove the whole thing, leave the back elastic in. You will no doubt have to make the waistband a little longer to fit your new measurements.

        1. rekha | | #4

          And the topstitching you suggested presumably goes on the sides of the V, does it?

          1. starzoe | | #5

            Yes, the insert could be topstitched which would make it look less like an alteration.

          2. zuwena | | #6

            A variation on the 'godet' theme is simply an insert strip that goes all the way from waist to hem.  Again, as a design element as they do with jeans these days.  It could be of the same fabric or something contrasting, or suede or anything else that grabs you.   Z

          3. starzoe | | #7

            I think your posting was directed at the original questioner, not my answer. She is no doubt following this thread and will see it.

          4. zuwena | | #8

            You're right. Sorry about that. Will be more careful. I guess I was just thinking of it as a continuing thread. Z

          5. rekha | | #9

            Just looking at images of godet inserts I came across kick pleats. How are they different from godet; it looks like a pleated godet, is that correct?

          6. starzoe | | #10

            A kick pleat and a godet are two different things. Godets can be inserted into a skirt edge to gain extra width at the hem, but there the similarity ends.

          7. rekha | | #11

            What is the difference?

          8. starzoe | | #12

            Use Google: http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/2007/03/21/draft-a-skirt-with-godets/
            and for pleats, there are 139,000 sites on different kinds of pleats.

          9. rekha | | #13

            Starzoe the link only describes godet; you haven't really shown what the difference between godet and kick pleats other than, as I  wrote before, the latter are pleated modification of the godet.

            I don't want to start a new thread and can't work out how one changes the addresse's name

          10. starzoe | | #14

            There is a drop-down list next to the "to" display. Click "others" for it.

          11. Teaf5 | | #15

            A godet may be part of a kick pleat, but not all kick pleats have godets. Kick pleats are simply inverted box pleats, made by folding a single layer of fabric widthwise before stitching. Kick pleats allow space at the hem to allow for walking. A godet is a triangular piece of fabric inserted into the main layer of fabric to give it more width at the bottom; in a flared skirt, godets will create interesting, flowing flounces around the hem.

            A godet can also be inserted as the back layer of a kick pleat, especially if you want the colors to contrast as it opens. You insert the contrasting color godet, then fold the fabric and stitch the pleat, and then press.

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