I was quite interested in Mary’s article on quilted garments but I don’t see any mention about the sort of alterations that are required to make an ordinary pattern for a quilted garment. Any feelers anyone?
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Replies
do you mewan to accomadate the new "turn of the cloth" ?
I'm unsure that the turn of the cloth is applicable here. I want to know how to adjust for the added thickness of the batting.
Mary doesn't make specific adjustments for the thickness of the batting, because she uses such a lightweight, thin batting in most cases that the added bulk, in a jacket, vest, or coat, if negligible. Compared with, say, wool flannel, interfacing, and lining as you might use in a tailored jacket, a quilted jacket isn't a lot bulkier.
Of course, if you're sewing a very fitted garment, you might want to go up a size, but she tends to stay with semi-fitted or looser styles. Even the quilted pants on the cover of the latest issue of Threads felt pretty much true to size, at least compared to other Vogue pants I've worn (I tried them on, and were they ever luscious! light, soft, and very warm). If in doubt, I'd fit the garment in muslin, then give yourself some extra room in the seam allowances to let it out slightly as needed. Because the quilted fabric has more body than plain fabric, you'll have less floppy, collapsing fabric even if the garment is slightly easier in fit than you'd usually make. Also, if you're using a silky, slippery backing, a jacket or coat slides right on quite comfortably, so you can wear a more fitted style than you'd probably guess.
Carol
Thank you for a comprehensive response.
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