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Pattern Drafting

barbsewandsew | Posted in Patterns on

The sleeve drafting info in Threads #131 was perfect for helping me draft a sleeve pattern for a scrub top ! Also, it helped me realize my arm hole shaping was all wrong ! Any ideas on how to draw the arm hole correctly would be so appreciated. I really thought I could figure it out since scrubs have so much ease in them. Thanks for any help ! Barbara

Replies

  1. User avater
    Becky-book | | #1

    The commercial pattern for scrubs that I have used has dropped shoulders.... the shoulder seam is longer than a set-in sleeve style blouse, and the sleeve cap is not as high.

    Hope this helps,

    Becky

    1. barbsewandsew | | #2

      Thanks Becky ! My sleeve cap looks too high ! I measured a scrub top that my daughter wears but the length from shoulder seam to  hem of sleeve on my sleeve pattern is much longer than the RTW sleeve length ...still working on it

      1. User avater
        Becky-book | | #3

        The size and shape of your sleeve cap will be affected by the size and shape of your armscye.  One view on my pattern has a cut-on sleeve (short)!

        Your sleeve length comparison should be divided into two sections (if you are trying to duplicate the RTW top) Shoulder point to bicep (or underarm) and then underarm to hem. The top half must fit the bodice, the bottom half is your length preference.

        Hope this helps,

        Becky

  2. cat42 | | #4

    There's a short article in Threads that discusses what a correct armhole curve looks like (both front and back). It doesn't tell how to draw the curve, just the overall shape, but I think it's very helpful: Ah Ha! Pattern Principles, http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/th_121_064.asp, Oct/Nov 2005, vol 121, pages 64-67. Armholes are discussed (with drawings) on page 66. Sleeves and sleeve caps are also discussed there. Interesting item there: sleeve cap height on a fitted garment measures approximately 2/3 to 3/4 of the length of the armhole depth measured vertically from the shoulder point to the underarm.

    1. barbsewandsew | | #5

      Thank you so much ! That article is very helpful ! B

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