Replies

1. 
   Bill_Stewart | Nov 29, 1999 12:10pm | #1

   *
   Janet, try the article search in Threads. they did one just up your alley. It showed several differnt type bodies with real people as models and what would look best on them and how to improve the appearance of clothing.

1. 
   Carol_Fresia | Nov 30, 1999 02:33am | #2

   *Janet, you can also check the http://www.fullfab.com site, for patterns in all sizes, esp. ones that flatter a fuller figure. The designs are often slightly out of the ordinary, but are likely to be adaptable to a teaching professional as long as you don't have to wear really conservative suits. No affiliation--I justl ike the site and have had good service from Gail.

1. 
   CColehour_ | Dec 03, 1999 01:43am | #3

   *I have this issue myself, but don't have any good answers. I always read in magazines that I should buy patterns to fit my upper chest measurement, then alter the bust to fit, but no one ever talks about how to do that. I know how to add a dart, which is the usual suggestion, but I live in Seattle, clothing is very casual, I'm only 33 and I'm not going to wear a dart (or should pads for that matter, but that's another rant). Ready to wear fits me without a dart, but I've had a hard time finding ways to make this work in patterns. I don't need to look that professional, in that Seattle professional is more casual, traditional profession seems like it would be hard. Maybe in that context, darts make sense! I think I might send my particular dilemma into the Threads fitting column and see if I can get an answer.

1. 
   Evita_ | Dec 07, 1999 10:28pm | #4

   *Yes, do send a request to Thread so we can all benefit from the answer ! I'll bet that many of us are wondering too !In my opinion, the reason a lot of RTW doesn't need a dart for fit is that they are either loose-fitting styles (plenty of ease for most bustlines), or dropped-shoulder styles, where the bust ease is provided by the fabric below the shoulder.But you can eliminate an unneeded dart in a closer-fitting garment (a vest, for example) provided you are not so well-endowed that you need the shaping that the dart provides. Up to D-cup should be fine. Here is how it is done. Make the bust-cup alteration using the slash and spread method - this opens the tissue from bust point to waistline, and opens a dart on the side seam. Now cut out the dart triangle from the seamline to the bust point, and bring the "legs" together. This opens the waistline a lot, but the side dart is now gone, you have kept the added bustline ease, and the armohole will still fit well. As the waistline now flares out, you have three choices: you can sew a waisline dart to taper the flare, you can keep the flare if you have a very full tummy, or you can taper the side seams on the front only until you get the fit you like.If this is not clear, a good book with illustrations will help you. My favourite is "Fit for real people" by Palmer/Alto. I have followed their suggestions and they work. Good luck !

1. 
   Ada | Jan 27, 2000 06:40am | #5

   *I agree that "Fit for Real People" has the best instructions for fitting a full bust. I have struggled with this problem all my life. I have also used the pivot and slide method. See Nancy Ziemans book.