Replies

1. 
   Becky-book | Jun 13, 2007 03:04pm | #1

   I am working on it too! I have age related "issues" and sleeve difficulties.  When our church girl's camp is over I hope to return to working out the "bugs" in my pattern.  Would love to compare notes!

   Becky

1. 
   jancy | Jun 13, 2007 06:00pm | #2

   Hi Becky

   Thanks for your prompt reply. I have a reasonable bodice [I think!] but am struggling with the sleeve. The first draft the cap was much too tall so am trying again.

   We are on holiday for a week from Saturday and shortly afterwards have a house move so I may be a bit erratic while we get sorted. I'll look forward to hearing from you . . .

   Best wishes.

   Jancy

1. 
   lovemyelna | Jun 14, 2007 07:48pm | #3

   Hi,
   I too have had some problems with sleeve fit. I went to a professional,
   super expert, to have a sloper made because my fitting problems are many. As you know it is impossible to do this yourself. She draped me and made a sloper that I have been using to draft
   my own patterns. The sleeve pattern, however, is drafted using the
   standard formula found in many pattern drafting books. My fitting
   problems are very broad shoulders, rounded to the front, thinnish arms.
   I finally pulled out a sleeve pattern that I had altered years ago
   and traced the sleeve head onto the new draft, adjusted for ease to the
   new armhole, tried it in muslin and it worked perfectly.
   The new sleeve cap looks very odd indeed! If you were to look at it
   you would say, "that certainly can't be right!" The cap is very tall
   (thin arms don't need all the extra fabric normally found in the very
   rounded caps) The shoulder point is rotated 1" forward, as are the
   shoulder seams (to accomodate the rounded to the front shoulder).
   The back length of the cap is considerably longer than the front, well
   the hole thing looks way out of whack! The point is, I had to
   drop the standard notion of what the sleeve cap was supposed to look
   like and deeply examine every aspect to come up with something that would work.
   Tell me more about the specific problems you are having.

1. 
   Becky-book | Jun 15, 2007 03:07pm | #4

   May I jump in too?

   I have forward shoulders, square-ish, but with a pad of "fluff" at the neck, and extra muscle and "fluff" in the upper arms.  Your comment about needing a tall sleeve cap for thin arms confirmed the thought that maybe my sleeve cap is a little too high for wide arms!  I hope to try out my draft this afternoon!!! finally!!!

   Becky

1. 
   barbsewandsew | Jun 23, 2007 03:35am | #5

   Just found this thread after posting about the sleeve drafting in issue 131 and getting some tips from Becky --thanks Becky! The sleeve cap being tall is what made me start changing the sleeve armscye (sp) !! mmmm

2. 
   cat42 | Jun 28, 2007 06:57am | #6

   I haven't tried it yet, but I've studied it thorougly. I think the method would apply to any size, not just plus size, tho not sure about the sleeve. The sleeve seems complicated, mathematical, and somewhat restrictive, but I will give it a try soon. I wonder if there isn't a way to drape a sleeve?

   One of the things that appeals to me about the draping method is that it ensures an even hem without guessing, or lots of trial & error. And it allows for differences between the right and left side. Also is much easier than tissue fitting a fitting shell.

   I also intend to try the technique to create a skirt sloper, and if that's successful, I'll try a pant sloper. now that will be a challenge!