Hi All
Like so many people I’m struggling to find the perfect trouser pattern. I’m half way there since everyone says the back of the pattern I’m using now is a perfect fit! Now if I can just sort the front…
The problem is that I want pockets. In many ways the style I want is like gents trousers, but with a side zip (I always use a concealed zipper and it works great). The trousers I have at the moment feel too tight when I put anything in the slant front pockets (including my hands). I’m sure what I need is more room somehow, but can’t quite figure out wear to add it.
I’d prefer a flat front design rather than pleats and I always make a straight leg trouser. Usually I’d be working in poly/wool or 100% wool, sometimes gaberdine, othertimes something with a bit more drape.
Any suggestions would be welcome!
Thanks, AJ
Replies
I hope things turn out well for you. However, I don't like to put pockets in pants/trousers because they make the hips look bigger. Just a thought.
I dont like pockets either but I guess your problem is that you need to add in only over the pocket area and not anywhere else.This is what I would do on a paper copy of you front pants pattern and then on some muslin.I would cut from the waist at the front dart point down to the depth of the pocket bag and then at right angles out to the side seam then I would move the corner piece out as much as you need to get the room that you need . Probably this wont be very much , about 1/2 inch . Then insert some tissue paper behind the gaps and use magic tape to tape it together . Then true the side seams tapering the added bit into the side hip .
To create the pocket decide where you want the pocket to start along the horizontal waist seam and how low down the side seam and he cut off the corner add seam allowance and the create the pocket bag and the facing part of the bag .I always use seam tape along that facing seam as it helps it to not gape.You cut the tape 1/4 inch smaller and stretch it and ease the pocket/pant seam onto it. You need to construct the front first and then sew the side seams and insert the zip in the usual manner . Hope that helps.Mem
Thanks, I'll try that! I was planning on making some muslins with a few ideas til I see what works.
AJ
If you want a side zipper and a pocket you should consider a zipper in the pocket. Claire Schaeffer showss this in her pocket book and I think Sandra Betzina has it in her book.
Nancy
Thanks for that. Yes, I have Claire Schaeffer's book and I've been doing it that way for quite a while now. I even do my skirts like that - love my pockets! Concealed zips are now the only kind I use, once you get the hang of it, it's hard to go back to the ordinary sort, they just look so messy.
AJ
Perhaps a pocket stay would help make it work. The outer fabric would need to be just a bit larger but at least the pants would fit underneath in the original way.
This post is archived.