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Princess Seams

Bloss1996 | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I am looking to make a plain top pattern into one that has princess seams that start from the armhole.  I am almost positive that in one of the Threads magazines that it explained how to do this.  Does anyone have any idea as to which issue it was?

Thanks in advance ………





  1. User avater
    Becky-book | | #1

    Take a look at Threads #129  March 2007 page 62  "Cut Up Patterns and Add Seams"  but I'm not sure that gives you enough info to do the job.  Fit for Real People has some good advice on changing darts to princess seams.


    1. Bloss1996 | | #2

      Thanks ... I'll check it out!

  2. HeartFire2 | | #3

    Just curious, but why do you want to do this? why not just buy a princess line pattern? Are there darts in the pattern you have? you will need to rotate them into the princess lines.

    1. Bloss1996 | | #4

      It is not a definite ... it is just something I am thinking about toying with.  It is for a bathing suit top so I am unable to just buy a pattern.  I may not do it at all but thought I would ask the question.


      1. HeartFire2 | | #5

        Kwik Sew has a one piece princess line swim suit pattern - number 2139.I've made some of their swim suit patterns and they were very good

        1. Bloss1996 | | #6


          Thanks, I'll check it out.


  3. Tatsy | | #7

    Putting princess seams in is one of the easiest things you can do.  If you want to do it for design interest, just draw a line and add seam allowances, then stitch the seam together.  If you're doing it for fit, just make sure that the seam line goes out where you do and in where you do.  I often add princess seams to the back of dresses and tops to make allowance for the fact that I'm two or three sizes larger on the bottom.  One important step to remember is to transer the grain line to both pieces of pattern. This keeps them hanging straight and looking great.

    1. Bloss1996 | | #8

      Thank you so much for your information.  Now if I decide to do it I have some information to work with.


    2. HeartFire2 | | #9

      putting princess seams in the back of a bodice is just 'design lines' but in the front, they incorporate the bust darts into the seam lines. So, a side dart would have to be rotated and split into a waist dart and either the shoulder or armscye dart, and then taken out in the seam.The back of a bodice is essentially flat and does not have a dart (unless you have really protruding shoulder blades like I do and then the back princess line incorporates fitting lines and darts.

      1. Tatsy | | #10

        You must not have a fanny or you would never call back lines "just" design lines.  I find princess lines extremely useful for easing out the bottom of blouses or dresses and also for getting rid of extra space in the armscye.  They are good places to take out or add in fabric for people with shapes differing from the standard.  Incorporating the existing dart into the princess seam is easy and so is pinning or taping the original dart shut and slitting from where you want it to go to the bust point.  It's just a matter of practice with copied patterns and muslins.

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