I have been attempting to sew a cap sleeve on a bodice, but the ease keeps leaving puckers each time. The fabric is gabardine. I have sewn it several times and ripped it out several times as well! I have tried pinning out the excess…dividing the excess as evenly as possible. The puckers fall in the front side of the bodice. The back side is pretty smooth.
Another problem with this same sleeve is it bells out more than I would like. I would prefer it to fit closer to my arm but I’m not sure how to alter the pattern. The pattern piece looks like a football.
I would appreciate any advice.