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question about side slits on blouse seam

lovemyelna | Posted in General Discussion on

My problem is with side slits on the side seam of a blouse. The method
of double turning the seam allowance back and hand stiching never
produces a quality product. I am open to any suggestions


  1. stitchmd | | #1

    Press each turn well and top stitch by machine, unless you really don't want a machine stitch. Hand picking will hold it down better than slip stitching the folded end on the inside.

    1. FrancesC | | #2

      I also have done side slits by topstitching up one side and down the other. Sometimes I sew 1/4 inch from the slit, sometimes right at the edge.But I also have hemstitched it by machine just as if it were a regular hem and once pressed, it looks like hand picking.I am in favour of using the machine whenever I can.You should reinforce the top point of the slit. FrancesC

      1. stitchmd | | #3

        Good advice, but it would be better to address it to alcledmu so she is sure to see it.

  2. SewTruTerry | | #4

    Something else that will make your job easier and better looking is to serge the edges of the fabric for the side seams. Then straight stitch the seam at the usual seam allowance. This will allow for the turn of the fabric in the slit area and you can make the turn very gradual until you get to the hem allowance. Hope this helps.

    1. lovemyelna | | #5

      Thanks Terry, I have tried this method and it works well but then you have to have
      your seams pressed open. I like most of my seams serged closed. I think they are
      easier to care for in the long run. I was trying to think of a way to use ribbon or a piece of self fabric to make the fold back extention so I could make sure I could cut both front and back bodice pieces next to each other. On some fabrics there is barely enough room for this so I skimp on seam allowances. Maybe something as simple as a continuous placket but then what do you do at the top of the slit? Any ideas?

      1. SewTruTerry | | #6

        When you have the fabric available you could also add an extension on to the pattern like you have when making a skirt with a slit.  This way you could still serge up to a certain point then straight stitch and clip to the seam and fold back the extensions and finish them off. ????

      2. DONNAKAYE | | #7

        May I ask what types of fabrics you are trying to do this on?  I do have some perhaps fresh ideas for you but they really would depend on the types of fabric and effects you are trying to achieve...

        Donna Childress Brandt


        1. lovemyelna | | #8

          Hi Donna,
          I would like to be able to use side slits with any type of fabric, since a blouse wtih that style suits my figure the best. Any suggestions that you have would be helpful.

          1. DONNAKAYE | | #9

            The reason I ask is because if you underline the blouse, you can cut the underlining larger than the face fabric, then turn and stitch right sides together from the slit down, clip at the termination point, then stitch the underlining into a serged seam on up to the top of the garment.  Does this make any sense to you?

  3. pjrose | | #10

    I have seen RTW blouses with the slits pressed open and the seams above serged closed.   The edges of the seam allowances were serged up into the serged seam above so I wold think you would have to finish the slit before you did the seam.  The slits were not folded under twice but with the seam allowances, folded back once, and topstitched up one side of the slit and down the other.  There was an inch or so above the top of the slit to the serged seam.   They did not clip to the seam.  These were nice blouses and they looked very nice.

  4. tenicatita | | #11

    One thing I have done for side slits is to use some Stitch Witchery to fuse the facings and hem in place.  After serging raw edges, I miter the corners, pressing them firmly in place, and then slide the fusing in between the layers and fuse it.  (You may want to tack the seam opening above the slit to reinforce it.)  It sounds like a lot of trouble, but it really isn'tYour side slits will stay flatter and not curl as much, and it will give you a nice crisp finish.

    Happy sewing!  Tenicatita

  5. mem1 | | #12

    Hello , well this is what i do. When cutting out your pattern flare the fabric out about3/4/of and inch from about 1 inch above the openingThen before you sew up the side seams serge the edges of this flare (this is why I flare it out rather than do a square angle which can be messy to serge) Make up he shirt as usual and then make up your side seams extening your seam down to the top of the side slit.( this will be 1 inch below the beginning of the flare .) When it all fits and you are ready to finish it off , serge the seam closed from the sleeve opening to the point where the flare begins and run off the edge as usual.  Then press the the flare bit open as you would a dart and turn under the slit openings . I always do the bottom hems first and the turn back the slits as it gives a better finish . Then sew along the bottoms upthe sides of the slit and down . I always do a little satin stitch arrow at the side seam and use a little tear away stabilizer as its the first spot a shirt will tear.In my sons shirts I actually incorporate a little patch and sew it on the outside . It looks quite sporty and certainly makes it all much stronger.

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