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re- draw the yoke seam

suncenter | Posted in Patterns on

Hi Everyone,

I haven’t been on these forums in a long time!

I am trying to redesign a Kwik Sew pattern #2123 I have for mens jeans. I’ve noticed some men wearing jeans where the yoke seam is reversed in direction. In other words it is not pointing down like a Y where it meets the center seam in the back but rather it curves up toward the center seam in back and down toward each side seam. I think it makes the butt look a little more round and would maybe be good for someone like me who lacks backside (high class problem I know).  Just wondering if there are any tips on how to best redraw this seam.

thanks,

Sun

Replies

  1. HelgaPataki | | #1

    redrawing reversed yoke pattern

    hummm, I used to do this when I was a teenager.   what I would do is repiece the original yoke and main body of the pant so you get a one piece template.  for the reverse yoke, reverse that pattern piece and place it on top of your new template.  now you smooth out the missing gaps making the cutting lines smooth.  and you cut your template into two pieces again, but this time you will have resulted in a reversed yoke.  does that make since?

    1. suncenter | | #2

      Yes, it does. Makes more sense than how I was thinking I would have to do it.  Yours is much more simple. Thanks! I'll let you know how it goes.

      1. suncenter | | #3

        I may have to admit humbleness on this one. Because both top and bottom edges of the yoke are curved I'm not sure how to draw it out on the flat.

        1. HelgaPataki | | #5

          reshaping the final piece

          on your first construction with the original yoke and the orignal pant part placed together to make one entire full pant template, call that your new template "a".  When you reverse your yoke, place the reverse yoke balanced when you want it to be on top of template "a".  Template "a" has the original seams for all around your garment.  use that original seam without altering it.  only alter the lower edge of the new yoke that you want reversed.  *you dont need to alter any side or top seams from your template "a" because that is the construction of the manufacturer, all you need to do is alter the cutting line for the lower part of the yoke and the upper part of the pant, i.e the only part you need to alter is the sewing/cutting line where the reversed yoke joins the main piece of the your pants. 

      2. HelgaPataki | | #4

        eager to hear about your results.

        I;m glad I can offer some advice.  It was easier to think about that write about and I didn't want to confuse you or make you think I was joking.  When I was a teen, I could only afford one pattern, and I did that method alot. 

        1. suncenter | | #6

          Both of you have been helpful. I'm not giving up and I've probably been thinking in a more complicated way than I need to...so based on your comments this is what I'm trying:

          The original yoke has a side seam measurement of 4 and 5/8 " and a center seam measurement of 2 and 5/8 inches. The difference is 2". So I added 2" to my pant back piece at the center seam at top  and subtracted 2" from the side seam at top of back piece.

          Then I am thinking I will flip the yoke piece to be reversed and use it to redraw the seam line for the top of the pant back.

          Lets hope this is the end of my mental regurgitating over this!

        2. suncenter | | #7

          Both of you have been helpful. I'm not giving up and I've probably been thinking in a more complicated way than I need to...so based on your comments this is what I'm trying:

          The original yoke has a side seam measurement of 4 and 5/8 " and a center seam measurement of 2 and 5/8 inches. The difference is 2". So I added 2" to my pant back piece at the center seam at top  and subtracted 2" from the side seam at top of back piece.

          Then I am thinking I will flip the yoke piece to be reversed and use it to redraw the seam line for the top of the pant back.

          Lets hope this is the end of my mental regurgitating over this!

          1. HelgaPataki | | #8

            reversing pant yoke

            Yes, thats what I mean.  When you reverse the shape, the sides on both widths would be wrong and you will need to lengthen/or shorten it according to whole pant template that you created.  because when you put the original yoke and the original pant back pattern together (cut edge next to each other and not on top) you will automatically add the sewing seems according to the original pattern. so once you have created the full pants back (yoke included) all you have to do is reverse the yoke and place it on top of the newly created template and redraw the yoke piece adjusting its width to to meet up with the original sides.  This is just another way of rewarding the above messages to you.  I would really like to know how it turns out for you.  I looked at the pattern online and it doesnt seem difficult to adjust.  I noticed that the front is simple, so all you need to do is adjust the back the way you want and keep the front the same.  Good luck.

  2. suncenter | | #9

    Thanks, I'll let you know how it turns out.

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