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Really pointy bust darts

educo | Posted in Fitting on

Hi, I’m trying to finish this top that I’m really excited about. It has a waist dart as well as a sideseam dart. My question is when I’m fitting the top, I have noticed that the darts at the end, stick out, like a cone. I have corrected my darts many times, took in more at the end, but I still get the same result. I have a D cup and I’m wondering if that matters. Can anyone help me?


  1. Elisabeth | | #1

    You know those little paper cone cups that are in the dispenser at watercoolers? Well, those are made with darts. If darts are deep enough in fabric the garment starts to resemble those cones. Personally I don't like darts very much for those kinds of reasons and prefer to shape around the bust with a princess seam or other method of fullness. Darts and the surrounding fabric can be coaxed into shape with good dart placement and pressing sometimes. The dart point needs to fall short of the bust point, the distance away becomes greater with increased cup size. A dart that is not on grain may be more cooperative, say a french dart instead of one horizontally from the side seam. Each dart could be divided into two or three darts so that each point of the dart isn't so extreme a transition. A dart and some ease can be combined in some cases. It may be that the type of fabric you are using in this particular project acts goofy with darts and if you were to make the same top in another fabric it would look great with the very same darts. It's so fun to be excited about your project, I hope the dart situation works out for you.

    1. educo | | #2

      The garment is on bias and I didn't want to have a princess seam. Because I also have a small waist, the darts are quite deep. I moved more excess fabric out through the sideseam so the darts wouldn't be so deep, but it throws the top off. The fabric is linen, but could it be that the top is draped on bias? I don't know, I'm going to keep looking for ways to change it. This is the only thing that's stopping me from moving on and finishing my top.

      1. HeartFire | | #3

        I'm not sure what you mean by 'moving fabric fabric out through the sideseam', but linnen will not be as forgiving as some other fabrics, and if you have altered the drape with the above alteration it may be part of the problem, . But, getting back to your darts, like the previous reply, shorten the dart length a little so the dont get quite so close to the bust point, your darts could end a full 2 inches from the bust point, you could also reshape the dart leg so its slightly concave - esp towards the point end so its a shallower point. Does that make sense?

      2. Elisabeth | | #5

        It's on the bias? Interesting. Now I'm going to have to go try some darts in linen on the bias to satisfy my curiosity! Bias can give so much shaping just by its nature, I'm wondering why there are such serious darts in this top. I'll let you know if I come up with anything.

        1. educo | | #6

          Yeah, it's on the bias because of the print on the linen. I thought because it was linen, if I put it on the bias, it would be easier to mold on the form. But the difference between my bust and my waist are big. My bust is 34, my waist is a 23.5...so that's another reason why I wanted to put it on bias. But the darts are so deep!! I read that instead of doing a sideseam dart, change it to a french dart, because it will fall on grain, which the sideseam dart doesn't. I will also shorten the darts more than I did and concave them at the end. I didn't know you can shorten them up to 2 inches...Thanks for all your help! I'd like to post a pic of it when all of this is done!!

  2. twinsmom | | #4

    Darts - uck.  I'm a D cup and size 8, 5'7".  Same problem occurs when I do this type of pattern (don't do it very often any longer.)  I will sew my "up" dart about 3-4"and not finish the point.  This leaves a tuck process, allowing fullness but not a point.  It definately depends on the fabric your using and linen is not all that forgiving. 

    Just a note:  Princess cut seams are absolutely the best for detailing my bust shape and allowing me to gain/lose10-15# with minimal alterations.  I also agree with a previous reponse, stop your darts earlier than pattern calls for.

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