A client has asked me to cut up and copy an old and favourite jacket, which seemed straightforward when she placed her order a few months ago. Now as I chop it up, it seems to me that I’m dissecting a vintage work of art. The tailoring is beautiful and I’m reminded of the article on Chanel tailoring in the last Threads (I think). The label on this jacket is Rein Mode. I assume this is the designer’s name. Does it mean anything to anyone? I feel sorry to have taken the scissors to this jacket, although it has clearly had a great deal of wear. One thing is sure – the copy won’t be on a level with the original, though I’ll work as closely as I can, using the half I’ve been able to keep intact as my guide.
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Replies
I have no idea about the label; did you take pictures of the jacket to document your dissection?
No, no photos, but I have tried to keep one half as it was, so that if I get lost, I can work out what I'm aiming for.
I've never seen any cutting up of a piece of clothing that was being copied. I'm no expert by no means, but why did she want you to cut it. Are you using parts of it in the new jacket?
In every magazine or book that I've read and seen, the article of clothing was copied intact.
No challenge to your method, just curious.
The client had had the jacket for about thirty years and it was second hand when she bought it! It has been very well worn and the fibres are weak, with some of the seams disintegrating. So although it seemed a shame to cut it up, it really had served its purpose.I saw the client today and she's quite excited to see a new jacket taking form.My experience of copying garments without dissecting them has been of limited success. This way, I've been able to open out darts etc. and have each piece lying flat for copying. I know I've seen the suggestion somewhere that a garment for copying could be unpicked and re-sewn after the pieces have been recorded on paper - but that seems a laborious task.
Oh, O.K. that makes perfect sense. I know you had a perfectly good reason, I was just curious. You do great work. So, go on girl and do what you do so well. giggle.
I googled Rein Mode and all it came up with is one suit (ladies) on ebay from the 1940's going for $100.00. made of silk/rayon.
I didn't think of Googling it. Thanks for that. I'm interested now to know just how old this lovely jacket actually was, but maybe it will remain a mystery forever. I've still had the benefit, though, of seeing its insides.
Sounds like a very interesting history project. Good luck, and I'd love to see some pictures when you're done!
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