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Seam construction – sheer fabric

Stitchwitch | Posted in General Discussion on

I am busy sewing a swingcoat in sheer fabric. Thus far I have used French seams.

I need to attach a band collar to the neckline. What sort of contruction method should  I use? Will it be possible to use a French Seam at the neckline curve?

The rest of the band is just straight down.

Replies

  1. mygaley | | #1

    I once followed pattern directions to sew 1/2 in seams, then resew 1/4 inch seams then trim as close to the 1/4 inch seamline as possible.  This made an edge that would curve (1/4 in) and those who saw it said it looked serged.  This was on chiffon and organza.  Since your band seam will be enclosed, and thus protected, you might make a sample to try.  Be sure to use a very fine thread so it will show less.  Send pictures!  Galey

  2. mimi | | #2

    Stitchwitch:  I made my daughter's wedding dress out of silk charmeuse with a silk chiffon overlay last year.  It had curved seams down the the front and godets around the lower third of the dress.  I used a french seam for all seams and can tell you that if you sew your seams with silk thread, trim and enclose with another seam you will be able to pull off a curved seam.  Use a very sharp/fine needle (change the one on your machine at the first sign of snagging) and small stitches and trim with very sharp scissors.  Good luck!

    mimi

    1. Stitchwitch | | #3

      Thank you for the reply Mimi.  I did use a scant French Seam for the contruction and it looks perfect. I had no problem whatsoever.  I did not attempt a  French Seam when it came to the insertion of the sleeve.  I inserted the sleeve the usual way, stitched another row of stitching 1/8" from first row of stitching. Then I applied a sating bias binding to finish off the raw edges. This also looks very smart.

      1. mimi | | #4

        Stitchwitch:  I am glad it worked for you!

        mimi

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