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serger heming

Clairezbo_ | Posted in The Archives on

I have noticed that on ready to wear garments made out of either burber or polar tec material they are using a method of heming that leaves a pretty design on the outside. I am wondering how this is done? If it is done with a serger ? If it is done with a 4 thread serger? Anybody out there know what I am takling about?


  1. Chris_Knoblock | | #1

    This is called a cover stitch. The only home serger I know of that does this sstitch is from Bernina. It's their top serger, I don't know the model #.

    For years, only commercial sergers could do this. Only now is it appearing on home sergers. You can douplicate it by serging the raw edge then top stitch on the right side with a double needle in your sewing machine.


    1. Jean_ | | #2

      *My new Janome does a lovely cover stitch.

      1. lin_hendrix | | #3

        *Hi Clairezbo, I believe the minimum # of threads a serger needs to do a cover stitch is five. Four won't do it. Most of the higher-end five thread sergers do this. I know my four thread Babylock Imagine won't do the cover stitch; the eight (yes eight) thread Babylock Evolve will. It's one of the reasons I'm trading up.--lin

        1. Clairezbo_ | | #4

          *Cris. Thanks for the tip. I like the idea of serging and then top stitching with a double needle. Sure beats the cost of a new Bernina just for one stitch. I have a Bernitta that I am very happy with. It is like an old friend, and I wouldnt put it out to pasture just for one stitch. I will try the double needle and post how I like it. Thanks again for the speedy answere. Clairezbo

          1. jonesie6 | | #5

            *Howdy:there are a few things I want to mention. First of all, if you use a double needle on your sewing machine, it looks like a cover stitch on top and under. Secondly, 4thread sergers can do the cover hem stitch, but it's a "mock" one. There are numerous ones that do this: Elna 704, is a 4thread with the cover hem, Elna 925, 945 have a 5thread and cards to go on the already large supply of stitches it will do. Pfaff and Bernina and Viking all have 5thread sergers with cover hem:Pfaff 4872Elna 925, 945Bernina: 2000DCE, 2000DCET (a non-usual cover hem stitch)Viking: 936, 1003 and there may be another model number.BabyLock: has the Evolve, but it's an 8thread...overkill???Well, that's that! You can always stick with your old friend and just double needle the top and it'll look really nice...I think we all just are getting so used to FAST that sergers are getting to be soooo versatile! But simplicity is sometimes the very best option!

          2. silkscape_ | | #6

            *claire,I don't know what you mean by a "pretty design" on the outside. the 5-thread cover stitch leaves what looks like a double row of straight stitches on the outside (as far as I know, I don't have a 5-thread). You may wish to try a serger "blind hem". This is done similarly to a 3-thread flatlock, with the fabric folded as for blind hemming on a conventional machine. It is not really invisible but looks like a delicate prick stitch on the right side. And your inside hem allowance edge is finished in the process.dawn

          3. Chris_Knoblock | | #7

            *You can hem with the serged edge on the right side by turning the hem to the right side and top stitching on the needle line of the serged stitch so it is invisible. This will look like the cover stitch done with the looper side on the right side.Chris.

          4. Charlene_Marion | | #8

            *I have a Bernina Serger that does the cover stitch. It only uses three threads. At first I was disappointed with it, because it had very little stretch, and the manual didn't cover that problem. I quit using it, and went back to using a twin needle, and stretching the t-shirting as I hemmed, to add some give. Then I would iron with steam to get rid of or minimize the waves. But I have boys that like to jump on the trampoline, and they must swing eachother around by their shirts or something, their hems are always popping. Then one day I was experimenting, and discovered if I loosened the two needle threads on the serger, the cover stitch has lots of stretch, especially if I put the stitches close together! It really helps, and it has way more stretch that twin needles. I wish I'd thought of it sooner. Hope that helps someone.

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