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Conversational Threads

sewing a zip into a crosswise seam

edwina | Posted in General Discussion on

I have recently made a 4 panel skirt in a soft wollen tweed fabric which was cut on the crosswise grain. I attempted to insert a concealed zip into the centre back seam and, even though I stabilised the seam with interfacing, the result was very poor and the zip would not lie flat. I then decided to try a normal type of zip instead with much the same result and even sewing it into the side seam made no difference – it was still puckered. Fortunately I had left a generous seam allowance and I was able to abandon the zip and opt for an elasticated waistband but the resulting fit was not as good. I am by no means a novice dressmaker but I can’t remember having such trouble before! I would welcome your comments.

Replies

  1. billsgirl | | #1

    edwina,  I wonder if you could have used a placket with snaps or concealed buttons?  The cross grain is unusual.  Did you have any troble with hem being uneven?.....sharon

    1. edwina | | #4

      Many thanks for your suggestion but ithink that any other type of opening would be too bulky for this fabric. The reason I used the crosswise grain was to achieve a drape which seems to suit my figure. The fabric was stable and I experienced no difficulty with the hem.  With regards

                                                                     Edwina

  2. User avater
    Becky-book | | #2

    I have decided that it really is worth the time to hand baste a zipper in first, especially an invisible zip or any zip on soft (unstable) cloth.

    Becky

    1. edwina | | #3

      Dear Becky,   Many thanks for your reply to my query. I agree that sewing the zip in by hand might be my only option and will certainly try this. I have arthritic hands which at times are very painful and I try to use my machine as much as possible whilst dressmaking.      With regards

                                                               Edwina.

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