I have recently made a 4 panel skirt in a soft wollen tweed fabric which was cut on the crosswise grain. I attempted to insert a concealed zip into the centre back seam and, even though I stabilised the seam with interfacing, the result was very poor and the zip would not lie flat. I then decided to try a normal type of zip instead with much the same result and even sewing it into the side seam made no difference – it was still puckered. Fortunately I had left a generous seam allowance and I was able to abandon the zip and opt for an elasticated waistband but the resulting fit was not as good. I am by no means a novice dressmaker but I can’t remember having such trouble before! I would welcome your comments.
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Replies
edwina, I wonder if you could have used a placket with snaps or concealed buttons? The cross grain is unusual. Did you have any troble with hem being uneven?.....sharon
Many thanks for your suggestion but ithink that any other type of opening would be too bulky for this fabric. The reason I used the crosswise grain was to achieve a drape which seems to suit my figure. The fabric was stable and I experienced no difficulty with the hem. With regards
Edwina
I have decided that it really is worth the time to hand baste a zipper in first, especially an invisible zip or any zip on soft (unstable) cloth.
Becky
Dear Becky, Many thanks for your reply to my query. I agree that sewing the zip in by hand might be my only option and will certainly try this. I have arthritic hands which at times are very painful and I try to use my machine as much as possible whilst dressmaking. With regards
Edwina.
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