SEWING WITH FAUX-FUR

If you are sewing faux fur for the first time these hints gleaned from the January 1997 issue of Threads magazine could help.

• Use long, glass head pins (less likely to get lost).
• Sew with good quality polyester thread for strength.
• Test and fit the pattern before cutting, as alterations are difficult or impossible later.

Cutting

• Work from the wrong side on a single layer of fabric, drawing the pattern pieces with chalk if necessary.
• Use a pair of sharp, pointed scissors, cutting through the backing only, so the pile is left intact.
• If the flying fur is irritating, wear a mask during cutting and vacuum often.
• Decide on the type of seam (see below) to plan your cutting. It is easier to reduce or eliminate seams ahead of time on the pattern, instead of trimming them later.

Seams

You can use different types of seams for different areas of the garment. Catch as few fur hairs as possible in the seam by using a seam ripper or awl to smooth the pile to the right side as you sew.

• Shaved seams-to reduce bulk, use an electric hair clipper or scissors to trim away the pile in seam allowances when fur is being sewn to lining. For neck to collar seams, shave both pieces, then double-stitch the seam or add a strip of seam tape for strength.
• Quarter inch (1.25 cm) seams– on seams like armholes, don’t shave the fur; instead, trim the seam allowances to 1/4 inch (1.25 cm) and sew the seam with a wide zigzag, enclosing the raw edges. Stitch again for strength.
• Hinged seams-for most straight, fur-to-fur seams trim off the entire seam allowance, set the machine for a 3/8 inch (1.87 cm) wide zigzag, and slightly loosen the upper thread tension. Sew so the left side of the zigzag pierces the fabric and the right side falls off the edge, then open the seam and run a spoon along the back side to open and flatten the fabric edges inside the stitching.

Hems

For a hem with less bulk, shave the pile wherever two layers of fur overlap, reduce the hem allowance to 1 inch (2.5 cm), then face the hem with a 2 to 5 in. (5-12.5 cm) strip of lining fabric. Whipstitch both the edge of the fur and the facing to the coat for stability.