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shape of back crotch hook on pants

blingy | Posted in Fitting on

I have just recently figured out what I have been doing wrong when it comes to getting pants to fit and along my journey I have realized that some patterns shape the back crotch hook at a 90 degree angle, that is the hook “shelf” is about 90 degrees from the back center seam.  On other patterns the hook is sloped away from the center seam, the angle is not nearly as severe.  Does anyone know the reason for the different shapes of the hooks?  All of the patterns are generally the same, for light weight wovens with an elastic waist, nothing really “fitted”, just simple casual styles.  Any info is greatly appreciated.

Replies

  1. jaeng | | #1
    1. Josefly | | #2

      That is just about the clearest explanation of crotch-fitting I've ever read. The sketches are a great help.Tip #3 was not so clear - "let out the crotch curve" - the accompanying sketch appears to "take in" the curve to me.But the explanation of why the rtw and commercial pattern companies usually lengthen the crotch instead of making it wider was interesting.Thank you for the link.

      1. jjgg | | #4

        "tip #3 was not so clear - "let out the crotch curve" - the accompanying sketch appears to "take in" the curve to me."Josefly, I agree with you, if the red line in the sketch is the new "let out" line, then indeed she has taken them in and made the crotch curve shorter and more binding.There is a lot more to fitting pants then just this, the angle of the pelvis needs to be taken into consideration - forward thrusting , sway back etc, then you also have to consider heavy thighs in front or back, knock knees etc.The "J" or "L" curve of the back crotch has to do with fitting and the shape of the buttocks, I think it's more in th European patterns that have th "L" shape and American that have the "J". I believe the L will fit most people better.

        1. Josefly | | #5

          Thanks for your response. I sometimes get confused about the space-making or -reducing effects of changes in the crotch seams, so your affirmation is appreciated.Yes, I also agree this is a simple explanation of a very complex thing, and the crotch adjustments don't address all the issues of fitting pants. Still the sketches, except for tip #3, and the description are very helpful, I think.I still haven't fitted pants for myself - keep saying I'm going to, but putting it off. So I don't know if the "J"-hook or the "L"-hook will be more appropriate for me. But I'll keep this site in mind when I finally do start the fitting process. I'm finding now that my tummy protrudes about as much or maybe more than my bottom! Most rtw pants look baggy on me in the seat.

          1. jjgg | | #6

            I just took a pants fitting class with Joyce Murphy. If you ever get the chance it is well worth it,
            http://www.jsmpatterns.com/

          2. Josefly | | #7

            Thank you for the tip. I'll check it out and be on the lookout for a class near me. Did you take the class in person or online?

          3. jjgg | | #8

            I took it in person and it was fantastic, I really learned a lot about fitting pants. She has a great way of making you "see" what needs to be done.

          4. Josefly | | #10

            ...making you "see" what needs to be doneExactly what I need. I'll sure look for a class. Thanks.

    2. Ralphetta | | #3

      Boy, I wish I'd read that 20 years ago. Great site. It took me years to figure that out on my own. I'm pretty sure that I have a DVD where Sandra Betzina shows how to piece that little pointy-piece in order to save fabric when cutting them out. It is in a very inconspicuous place, (unless you're Madonna a pose with your legs spread apart on magazine covers.)

    3. Gloriasews | | #9

      Thanks so much for that web link - good instructions!

      Gloria

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