Hi everyone,
I am new to this site, but think it’s a great idea to exchange ideas etc.
I am a professional tailor who’s taking on a new project: making simple wedding dresses in fine silk, all with semi-long trains! I have never worked with fine silk, nor anything cut on the bias, so I desperately need some advice!
What do I do if my fabric isn’t wide enough to fit the entire length of the pattern?
And would you sow darts at the waist, or leave that as extra width?
And what is the best way to finish the hemline?
And on a completely different subject: Does anyone know where I can buy large rolls of pattern paper??
Thanks in advance!
Replies
If I were starting something totally unfamiliar like that I'd do a lot of practicing first, especially before trying to sell the finished product. If your first project is for a customer and the results are unsatisfactory you risk losing future business instead of starting to build a reputation. This can be especially critical with bridal gowns which have so much emotion invested and must be perfect and on time.
Since you haven't done any bias things before a good place to start would be with a cheaper fabric, even a clearance table fabric, to get the hang of it. Then you still might want to try something for yourself, or on spec for someone else, out of silk. I know Threads has done articles on working with bias, and there must be books and websites with instructions too.
If you can't fit your piece on the true bias you might be able to use a partial bias, more like thirty degrees. Again, you'll have to experiment. With a very fine, drapey fabric this would probably suffice.
I don't understand the dart question, so cannot comment.
The hemline should probably be a rolled edge or shirttail hem, something very thin.
Nancy's Notions sells some pretty big rolls of pattern cloth, I much prefer this to paper as you can make a sort of fitting muslin with it but it is just crisp enough for patterns, plus sort of clings to the fabric when you lay out the pattern.
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