Replies

1. 
   ixs | Oct 23, 2006 02:57am | #1

   Hi,

   I just purchased the book, Jackets for Real People (I think that's the title) from Amazon at a very good price, and it has all kinds of really great information; I have also purchased the two other books these authors have published about fit; very good advice, I think.

   I am very sold on underlining, although I sometimes don't use a fusible; I make some techniques up as I go along just because I am somewhat of a maverick, but I've been sewing for a long while, although I don't sew really high end clothing, but I did make most of the dressier clothes I used to wear to work.

   I underlined a jacket that was this inexpensive suede-like material with lining material and it slipped on and looked very nice.  I just don't do linings that much because I have a serger that I can finish seams with very nicely.

   Oh, I did make a silk short suit that was very dressy, and I used a very thin iron-on interfacing, but that is a tedious job, to press all that interfacing; the books recommend applying the interfacing to the material before cutting out the jacket.  Because the jacket wasn't lined, I lined the sleeves and hand sewed them in, so that the jacket was easier to put on.

   Hope this helps............

2. 
   mem | Oct 23, 2006 03:42am | #2

   There was a very good article in Vogue sewing by Claire schaffer about this and she actually stitches an underlining to the shell fabric at the seam allowance . I dont have the article with me so i cant refer to it exactly. I also have used a quilting method with tweed and while alot of work it is very effective . The article in a recent Threads about making a Chanel jacket was my main referrence for that. Silk tweed is very heavy and I think the it would be very wise to mount it on an interlining and then line it is whatever way you want.

3. 
   mem | Oct 23, 2006 03:46am | #3

   just to add to my other post there is a pattern just out in Claire schaffers series for Vogue which gives a really good description of how to attach the underlining . It is a gelati coloured tweed jacket with a stand up mandarin collar and a 3 piece sleeve and trimmed with cream braid . No where is the name Chanel mentioned but that is probably for legal reasons . I bought the pattern not so much for the actual jacket but for the method she describes . Very good and usable on almost any jacket pattern made with tweed .

1. 
   WandaJ | Oct 24, 2006 01:05am | #6

   I too recently purchased this pattern. And, I want to not only make the jacket (someday), but I love reading the instructions that Claire provides with her patterns. They are applicable in garments other than those that she designs.

4. 
   jjgg | Oct 23, 2006 04:01am | #4

   I would underline the jacket with a china silk and then line it. I'm not sure what methods of inserting the lining you are talking about, but I don't think that matters. The underlining will support the silk tweed and keep it from streching out of shape

1. 
   WandaJ | Oct 24, 2006 01:08am | #7

   A nice, inexpensive, batiste also makes a good underlining for clothing. And, if it's 100% cotton, you can count on it breathing versus polyester.  I found that Hancock Fabric store in my area (Ohio-Miami Valley area) carries this at a most reasonable price. Just be sure to preshrink it before cutting.

1. 
   jjgg | Oct 24, 2006 04:55am | #8

   I'll have to look at the batiste at Hancocks,but most cotton batiste I've seen (really nice stuff) cost more than the china silk - which is 100% silk not poly.

1. 
   WandaJ | Oct 24, 2006 06:01pm | #9

   This is not the case with the batiste that I found at our Hancock Fabric Store. Maybe a phone call will save you the drive to the store.

2. 
   Josefly | Nov 04, 2006 05:55pm | #12

   You have to be careful at Hancock's - sometimes what they call "batiste" is not all cotton, but a poly-cotton blend, which is not nearly as light and fine as the all-cotton.

5. 
   fabricholic | Oct 23, 2006 11:25pm | #5

   Hi Lauri,

   In Anna Zapp's book, she uses a fusible tricot and also a lining. She said the tricot makes the material a little more sturdy and she does apply it before she cuts out the material. Incidently, she was making a vest in her book.

   Marcy

1. 
   Lauri | Oct 25, 2006 03:29am | #10

   Thank you all for sharing your expertise.  I appreciate hearing from each of you.  I'm going to try making samples using each suggestion and decide which one works for my fabric.  Thanks again, you guys rock!

1. 
   grammystac | Nov 06, 2006 10:09pm | #13

   Making samples of each underlining and each technique is a very good idea. You can't go wrong when you take the time to test everything

1. 
   WandaJ | Feb 23, 2007 01:06am | #14

   Please let us know which underlining you decided to use and how it worked out.

6. 
   SewNancy | Oct 26, 2006 08:07am | #11

   I would underline this fabric first, either with silk organza or with iron on as I seem to remember that it doesn't hold its shape well.

7. 
   Cherrypops | Apr 04, 2007 02:36pm | #15

   Jane, this discussion might help you with your silk tweed, or it may not, read it anyway you never know. Cherrypops