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Simplicity Pattern 3628 Jacket

blingy | Posted in Patterns on

Is anyone familiar with this pattern?  This is one of the Threads Magazine Collection patterns.  The instructions are so bad that I cannot finish it.  I did go to pattern review and even though people did finish this jacket, they all said the instructions were bad.  The markings for the sleeve placement are about an inch off on one side but I can work around that.  It does make you wonder about the quality of the instructions though.  I have gaping holes on the inside where the lining attaches to the fron facings at the bottom, and there is no way to do some stay-stitching to keep the front facings from rolling to the outside.  I followed the instructions but they never address this section.  Picture 41.  Then #43, it says to “Slip sleeves in place”.  What on earth does that mean?  Is this some sewing term I have never heard of?  Slip sleeves in place?  The pictures don’t even help with this.  If anyone can shed some light on how to eliminate the gap where the lining meets the facings and help me with the lining in the sleeve I would certainly appreciate it!  Otherwise this is just another rag.


  1. alotofstitches | | #1

    I can only give you general info since I can't see the instruction sheet.  The lining should be all sewn together:  the whole body with the sleeves set in (sewn in) matching the dots on the sleeves to the dots on the armhole.  The sleeve looks like it has a few gathers in the sleeve cap.  I also add a 3/4 inch wide x 3" long strip of lining sewn in at both the center of the sleeve cap and the underarm seam of the sleeve LINING.  Just sew the strip into the sleeve/armhole seam.  When sewing the lengthwise seam of the sleeve, sew from armhole down about 4", skip a space and then sew about 4" down toward sleeve hem.  This big opening will make it easy for you to get inside between the jacket layers to do hand work later.  The jacket should be sewn up as well with sleeves set into the armholes.

    Be sure everything is pressed so far.  Email or leave a message and I'll get you further along.  You might look up the Threads article re:  "Bagging a Lining" for future help. Liz 

  2. Beth | | #2

    I don't visualize what you
    I don't visualize what you mean. I recently finished making my first jacket. The Palmer/Pletsch book, "Tailoring" was very helpful. The jacket turned out wearable because of their book and pressing with each step. If you refer to a good book on tailoring, a solution might present itself.

    1. User avater
      blingy | | #4

      I don't like this new format,
      I don't like this new format, I didn't know I had any replies to my posting! Part of the problem with this jacket is that if you follow the instructions you don't get a chance to press the front and front facing seam! I called Simplicity two days ago and the woman I spoke to was so rude and nasty that I was still upset about the call the next day so I wrote to the supervisor of customer service! That was yesterday and, no surprise, I haven't heard a thing back. I have made some progress but the lining is just odd where it attaches to the front facing. The lining is also too long and I have no idea how to finish the hem on the outer jacket. I don't know how this pattern got such good reviews on patternreview.com but then again, I have never seen a bad review of anything there. I think I will just give up garments and stick to quilting, I can't get any help around here and I am just not creative enough to figure it out on my own.

  3. cat42 | | #3

    If you've already cut the
    If you've already cut the jacket and lining, and the lining won't meet the facings, you certainly have a challenge. something similar happened to me when I made an ethnic Turkish coat out of heavy cotton ikat, and lined it with china silk. After finishing the outer garment, I let it hang while I sewed the lining. But when I tried to put them together, the outer garment had stretched! so that the lining didn't reach the hem.

    My solution: There was about a 2" gap, so I bought some pretty ribbon-braid and sewed that to the bottom of the lining to lengthen it, then hand-stitched that to the garment hem. People think I designed the garment that way on purpose! Trying to attach photo, but having trouble.

    If you have enough lining fabric, you can cut strips to fill in the gap, similar to using the braid. Or use scraps of another lining fabric in a coordinating color

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