Facebook Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram YouTube Icon Headphones Icon Favorite Navigation Search Icon Forum Search Icon Main Search Icon Close Icon Video Play Icon Indicator Arrow Icon Close Icon Hamburger/Search Icon Plus Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon

Conversational Threads

Size 18 shoulders, size 20 body

Enid_Shparo | Posted in The Archives on

*
I’m sewing blouses for my daughter. Her shoulders measure 6 3/4″, but she needs a size 20 blouse. How do I alter the shoulders? One book says to slash the pattern from mid-shoulder diagonally across to the seamline of the armhole and then overlap it. Do I redraw then the shoulder line? HELP!

Replies

  1. Bill_Stewart | | #1

    *
    The easiest way to adjust this is to make a tracing of the full size unadjusted pattern area. on the original place a mark on the shoulder equal to the amount to be removed from the armhole/shoulder line. ie. if the finised shoulder is 3/4" too long finished, place the mark over 3/4" from the cutting line of the armhole. place the tracing back on top of the original, place a pin through the seamline junction on the armhole/underarm seamlines and pivot the outer "cut edge" of the tracing over to the mark. hold the tracing firmly in this position and going under the tracing, mark its line on the original. this reduces the shoulder width the easy way. just be sure to be consistent in that the amount taken off at the mark of the shoulder is from the cut edge so that when you pivot the tracing you move the seam allowance at the same time. Hope this helps

    1. Enid_Shapiro | | #2

      *Thank you for your prompt help. I practiced what you suggested, and then realized something. The shoulder line itself will be about 3/4" BELOW what it was originally. That, I think, will create a problem. The measurement from the waist to the shoulder line will be shorter than before, and since my daughter has a large bust, it will not be enough room. Why can't I just lop of 3/4" at the end of the shoulder and keep the shoulder line the same?

      1. Bill_Stewart | | #3

        *When you pivot over, you are only interested in the reshaping of the curve of the armhole. With the pivot at the underarm/sleeve seam line junction you are not affecting the bust at all - only the narrowing of the chest from the size 20 at underarm to a taper to an 18 shoulder. You use the original shoulder line as it was on the original pattern - disregard the drop of the "copy's" shoulder seam . the drop of the copy's seam can be adjusted in the ease of the sleeve by widening it by pivoting on the center line at biceps level on the front the same amount as the "drop" or if a really full sleeve by adjusting the placement of gathers. all you really want to do is create a wedge to remove in the armhold that tapers from the "wide" at shoulder to "0" at underarm. A good refernce to see this done is Nancy's Notions booklet on quick pattern adjustments. It does lenghten the fron armhole a bit,but on a full size miss 16 pattern it is only 1/2". I don't remember how big a child's 18/20 is, but the adjustment in drop should be about 1/2" or less I think. Bill

This post is archived.

Threads Insider

Get instant access to hundreds of videos, tutorials, projects, and more.

Start Your Free Trial

Already an Insider? Log in

Conversational Threads

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |

Threads Insider Exclusives

View All
View All

Highlights

Shop the Store

View All
View More