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Conversational Threads

Skirt on bias and yoke cut on grain?

cer | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Does anyone know of a pattern, or have created a design where a skirt yoke is cut on grain but the skirt is on bias?

I desire the drape and flow of a bias skirt but do not want the fall of the bias to hug my 40+ hips and tummy pouch. I’m thinking a skirt yoke cut on grain would not drape as much and therefore hide the tell tale signs of old age and lack of exercise.

Also, wouldn’t I also need to pay close attention to the length at the skirt’s hemline? Flow and drape is directly proportional to the swing (circumference at hemline) — correct? And fabric choice matters too.

Thank you, Carolyn


  1. Elisabeth | | #1

    Yes, the yoke can be on grain and the skirt bias. Although I haven't looked closely, I suspect some of the skirts in the current pattern books have that setup. After the bias skirt is sewn on it would need to hang for a day or two before hemming, of course, as in any bias garment. I find that there is a lot more movement (and stretch) in the hem of a bias skirt than an on grain skirt so you don't need the volume of fabric to create a nice open feeling hemline. The softer draping fabrics give the classic bias look. Making a double layer or a lining really helps make a smoothing effect with the clingy bias.

    Sounds like a fun project. Enjoy!

    1. cer | | #2

      Thanks Elisabeth, I needed the sewing support to see if the idea would fly. Carolyn

  2. mem1 | | #3

    hello Carolyn, i am no model and have mad such a skirt and received compliments so be brave and do it . Burda has some lovely skirts that fit that criteria . You can always just use an aline skirt pattern with seams at the side and then cut off the yoke which you can cut on the grain and then cut the remainder of the skirt on the cross .You would of course have to add in seam allowances to the yoke skirt seams.If you do this just spread the bottom of the skirt a little at the sides and you will end up with a skirt which is columnar and then flares out at the hem i have done this with georgette and lined it with a very fine knit polyester . I just used elastic in the top so it was all very simple. You could use a faced skirt top. My sister in law has a skirt which has elastic which is sandwiched in between the lining  and the fashion fabric . The elastic has a decorative top on it and peeks out from between the two layers.It looks lovely . The lining can be just a tube of knit . It doesn't have to be cut on the cross if you use a knit. I cut the lining a little shorter than the fashion fabric and this accentuates the movement at the bottom of the skirt.

    good luck

    1. cer | | #4

      Thank you MEM for your comments. I needed the feed back and pep talk. I know BURDA is up-and-coming in design. It is difficult to see the construction in the catalog so I'll open up the envelopes and read the instructions to see the yoke and bias information. I've used BURDA on other things and find they are true to my body measurements -- a help.

      Thank you for your confidence.

      Very much appreciated, Carolyn

    2. SewNancy | | #5

      There was an article in Threads on draping a yoked skirt.  The yoke is on grain and the skirts vary as to the look wanted.  YOu'd need to have a mannequin but it didn't look all that difficult to do.


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