sleeve cap ease, and large biceps
I have to always adjust sleeve girth due to working out and having bigger arms. I just recently starting taking away the ease in the cap of sleeves which is always too much, gives you that puckered homemade look. I used Sandra Betzina’s method of making 3 lines parallel to the grainline and cutting on these lines, overlapping 1/4 to 1/2in according to how much ease needs to be taken out. I noticed that the pattern grainline changes. I just did a trial cut out of old sheets. I use the pivot and slide technique for enlarging sleeve circumference. This worked out fine, but I am concerned about the grainline change on the pattern. Any solutions?
I'm not sure about this but it seems to me that there are at least two ways in which you can increase the width needed for a larger bicep, neither of which should throw the grainline off. Assuming a one piece sleeve___These can be used separately or together depending on the amount of increase needed for the enlarged bicep. One method s to add up to an inch on side seams at the bicep line and then taper the side seam lines down to the wrist. The grain line will be unchanged. This will not alter the ease of the cap but will require that the same additional amount be added to the bodice back and front to accommodate the extra. A second method that does alter, i.e., increase the amount of ease is to split the sleeve from the cap to the wrist along a line drawn parallel to the grain line, preferably on the side that attaches to the back bodice. If the total amount of ease ends up being more than 1 1/2 times the circumference of the sleeve opening (front and back bodice measured all around across the shoulder) then two rows of ease stitching from notch to notch on the sleeve should be put in, pulled up and steam shrunk before attaching to the bodice. Note: Regardless of the method or even if you use both methods, it is important to mark the shoulder point on the sleeve cap and make sure that this point is lined up directly with the shoulder or the sleeve will not hang straight. Of course, each of us has something a little different about our body so you may find that the grainline is pulling the sleeve off line--if this is happening you may have to do a little personal tinkering with the cap point, moving it slightly forward or backward to get the grainline of the sleeve to hang straight down.
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