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Sleeve Cap Height???

Stitchwitch | Posted in General Discussion on

Should the height of the sleeve cap be the same as the height of the armhole or should the cap height be slightly longer for ease?

Replies

  1. User avater
    paddyscar | | #1

    Hi Stitchwitch:

    You are right - the sleeve cap is longer than the arm hole.  Slide your hand from where the shoulder seam lies, down your arm.  There is a curve outward going down your arm.  If the sleeve cap was equal in height to the armhole, you'd have a permanent pull from under the arm to the shoulder.

    Frances

    1. neaton | | #3

      There is a very interesting article at Fashion-Incubator about sleeve cap design. Some of it is a little technical, but very interesting if you have always had trouble getting sleeve caps to look right. Fashion-Incubator.com is a site for those in the garment business.I was always told my shoulders are forward - well, since everyone's shoulders are forward so I really enjoyed the article.http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/Having said that, I think adding extra sleeve allowance at the cap gives you the opportunity to work with the pattern and fabric so that it fits correctly instead of blindly sewing the pattern as-is.Nancy

      1. statha | | #4

        Hello Neaton,

        thanks for that link, the article is fascinating. I've recently done a pattern drafting course but the issue of non-symmetrical sleeve cap was not mentionned. Marcy Tilton, in her " Easy guide to sewing tops and Tshirts" says balance the armhole, that is make sure the back is 1/2 inch longer than the front. I'm off to check my other books, to see if there's anything like the sleeve cap that Kathleen Fansanella drew. Has anyone else got her book, and what do you think about it?("The Entrepreneur's guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing") By the time I translate to NZ$, and add shipping costs, it's quite an investment to take on!

        statha

  2. Teaf5 | | #2

    It is nearly the same height for a T-shirt, but longer for more fitted sleeves, and very long for a gathered (sometimes called "French") sleeve cap.

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