Replies

1. 
   paddyscar | Dec 17, 2008 07:21pm | #1

   Hi Stitchwitch:

   You are right - the sleeve cap is longer than the arm hole.  Slide your hand from where the shoulder seam lies, down your arm.  There is a curve outward going down your arm.  If the sleeve cap was equal in height to the armhole, you'd have a permanent pull from under the arm to the shoulder.

   Frances

1. 
   neaton | Dec 19, 2008 06:57pm | #3

   There is a very interesting article at Fashion-Incubator about sleeve cap design. Some of it is a little technical, but very interesting if you have always had trouble getting sleeve caps to look right. Fashion-Incubator.com is a site for those in the garment business.I was always told my shoulders are forward - well, since everyone's shoulders are forward so I really enjoyed the article.http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/sleeve_cap_ease_is_bogus/Having said that, I think adding extra sleeve allowance at the cap gives you the opportunity to work with the pattern and fabric so that it fits correctly instead of blindly sewing the pattern as-is.Nancy

1. 
   statha | Dec 28, 2008 12:12pm | #4

   Hello Neaton,

   thanks for that link, the article is fascinating. I've recently done a pattern drafting course but the issue of non-symmetrical sleeve cap was not mentionned. Marcy Tilton, in her " Easy guide to sewing tops and Tshirts" says balance the armhole, that is make sure the back is 1/2 inch longer than the front. I'm off to check my other books, to see if there's anything like the sleeve cap that Kathleen Fansanella drew. Has anyone else got her book, and what do you think about it?("The Entrepreneur's guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing") By the time I translate to NZ$, and add shipping costs, it's quite an investment to take on!

   statha

2. 
   Teaf5 | Dec 17, 2008 08:25pm | #2

   It is nearly the same height for a T-shirt, but longer for more fitted sleeves, and very long for a gathered (sometimes called "French") sleeve cap.