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sleeve ease

nettie | Posted in Fitting on

I need to reduce the ease in a jacket sleeve cap.  What is the best way to do this?

Replies

  1. jjgg | | #1

    You can change the arc of the side curves, by straightening the curve you will remove a little bit of ease - how much do you need to remove and why? what pattern is it?

    Usually, you DONT want to shorten the height of the sleeve cap. You can also remove some of the ease by taking it off at the sides right at the underarm seam (shortening the sleeve cap line there) this will make the sleeve more narrow at the bicep area. (This can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on your anatomy - heavy or thin upper arms).

    If the sleeve is too wide all the way around, you can take a vertical fold through the center of the sleeve making the whole sleeve narrower

    1. nettie | | #2

      It's Vogue 8263.  Have a heavy upper arm so it's a combination of problems.  Ease removal plus enough room for upper arm.

      Appreciate  your input.

      1. jjgg | | #3

        Well, it is a one piece sleeve so the methods I mentioned should work. To keep the width of the upper sleeve just straighten the curve that runs from the shoulder dot to the side seam somewhat. How much ease is built into the pattern and why do you want to remove it? waht sort of fabric are you using? A straight line between 2 points is shorter than a curved one. This will leave you with the full width of the upper sleeve

        1. nettie | | #4

          I haven't actually measured the amount of ease.  I'm guessing when I say it could use about 1/2 inch less.  I have NEVER had an issue with a sleeve cap like this one.

          I used the usual muslin to make a trial and now I'm using a medium weight linen.  I haven't cut the sleeves in the linen yet.  I'll try your method in muslin first. 

          Again, thank you.

          1. jjgg | | #5

            Nettie,You need to go ahead and measure to see what you are working with first. There shouldn't be more than 1 1/2 inch ease. If there is you definitely need to remove some, and if you are working in linen, than I'd have only about 3/4 to 1 inch of ease

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