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Sleeve on Beaded Blouse

Cassie_Wuensche | Posted in The Archives on

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I am taking up the shoulders on a Watters & Watters silk dupioni top that has seed pearls all over. I’ve taken up the shoulders but now I’m stuck with a sleeve cap that has way too much fabric. Is there a way I can re-set this sleeve without making the arms smaller or leaving a pointed tuck? I would like for the sleeve to look like the original, which was very smooth and fitted against the shoulder.

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  1. Joyce_Murphy | | #1

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    Cassie,
    When you took up the shoulders you also raised up the armhole under the arm so now what you need to do is reshape the armhole back to where it was originally assuming that the sleeve fit was good before the shoulders were raised. The sleeves will need to be removed and entirely re-set. Here's the method I learned in apparel design school and that I used over and over in my alterations business. The idea here is that you will use the sleeve to help you reshape the armhole. First remove the sleeves noting the point at the top that originally met the shoulder seam before you raised the shoulders. (I imagine this means considerable re-beading but I don't have a way around that.) Now with the garment inside out place the sleeve in the upper part of the armhole being careful to preserve the roundness of the sleeve cap. Match the top point of the sleeve cap to the new shoulder seam and pin the sleeve (cap only) into the garment. Baste the sleeve cap into the armhole leaving the bottom half of the armhole free. Next turn the garment right side out and place the shoulder/sleeve cap over the back of your fist. With the other hand grasp the bottom of sleeve and body armhole allowing the edges NOT to match up. The body armhole will come up higher than the sleeve armhole. Pin the two together. Now finish basting around the bottom half of the armhole following the sleeve seam line being careful to let the body fall into it's natural position. Look the sleeve over and if you like the shape of it, sew it in by machine. Re-bead the dress around the sleeve and your done.
    Good luck!
    Joyce

    1. Cassie_Wuensche | | #2

      *Hi Joyce,Thank you so much. It's lined, too, and it's giving me a fit. I think I really picked the wrong project but I can't stop now!

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