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sleeves on both wovens and knits

blingy | Posted in Fitting on

Hi all, I am new here and I hope someone can help me.  All the tops I have sewn for the last year (that’s when I picked up sewing again) have wrinkles that run from the bottom of the arm hole toward the center back and ONLY on the back bodice, the sleeve itself is fine and the front is ok.  It looks like the armhole is too small yet it feels comfortable and the back is not tight.  I want to adjust it like I have done with crotch length, take a deeper cut at the “hook” just in the back bodice.  Like I say, this is on knits too, even on tops that are too big and really need to be made smaller across the shoulders.  This is really baffling me, I cannot find any info on this!  I tried increasing the armhole size by 1 inch and that took care of those wrinkles in back but then I couldn’t move my arms in front, it changed the curve in the front and will not work.  Can you adjust just the back and if so what do I do with the sleeves?  I have noticed even store bought clothes do this but to a lesser extent.  I don’t think I am shaped in any odd sort of way yet I have tried every tips I have read about, a dozen or so muslins, and nothing has worked.  Please, anyone with suggestions?

Replies

  1. HeartFire2 | | #1

    would you be able to post of photo of this? You may need to rotate the sleeve in the armhole some, but I can't really figure out your problem from just the words. As they say, a "picture paints a thousand words"

    1. User avater
      blingy | | #2

      Actually I found the answer to my problem.  Just on the back bodice I trimmed off 0.75 inch from the shoulder at the sleeve and trimmed another 0.75 inch from the bottom of the "hook" of the armhole.  This, in effect, lowers the back armhole without having to change the sleeve and without bothering the front at all.  I read this in Sandra Betzina's book and it worked like a charm!  Thanks for replying to my question!

      1. HeartFire2 | | #3

        Great, I'm glad you were able to solve this problem

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