Replies

1. 
   Leafy100 | Oct 22, 2006 03:26pm | #1

   I am working with McCall's sloper pattern - very slowly - my fitting assistant doesn't seen to want to make it snug (whose help I trul appreaciate greatly!).  From what I've read, a sloper is supposed to be snug.  After 35 years of sewing and tailoring, I'm trying to figure out why I can no longer get a good fit across my back.  So I, too, would like to hear others experience with slopers

1. 
   Becky-book | Oct 23, 2006 04:07pm | #2

   After 42 years of sewing, my back is getting rounded and my shoulders pitching forward, back fitting (and sleeves) need some attention for me too!  I guess it is time to re-do my pattern favorites and start with an accurate sloper for this old body!  I used to be able to sew with commercial patterns with only very minimal changes!!  No more lazy sewing for me!

   Becky

2. 
   zuwena | Oct 24, 2006 08:42am | #3

   I'm not sure if "snug" is the right term but it should fit like a "glove" (no style ease)showing all the idiosyncracies of your body type --e.g., slope of shoulder, back width, waist size, bust apex, etc. so that you can adjust a commercial pattern or create your own for proper ease and fit.

   Z

2. 
   NewRenaissanceWoman | Oct 25, 2006 02:04pm | #4

   Personally, I use master patterns, which are just slopers with seam allowances. I don't like to have to keep adding seams. You just have to remember they're there when working with them, and reference only the seamlines.

   If you are going to use your slopers to create new patterns/designs for yourself it is adviseable to include basic fitting ease; 2" in the bust and hips and 1" at the waist, but no design/style ease. If you will be using it to create or fit strapless garments it will need to be made to your exact body measurements with no ease.

   Once you have a sloper set, you can whip up any style you want very easily. Better than trying to adjust commercial patterns. You can work from drawings or photos. A good set of slopers should include; bodice to the waist, straight skirt, pants, torso (bodice and skirt together) with no waist seam, straight sleeve, sleeve with elbow dart, and 2 piece sleeve. Whether you draft these from scratch or use a fitting pattern, you will now be able to create anything you desire and have it fit right with little or no tweaking. You may want to get a patternmaking book such as Handford's Professional Patternmaking for Designers which I find the easiest to understand and follow; mostly well drawn illustrations with only the necessary descriptions.