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Square necline gap

San | Posted in Fitting on

Hi,    I am trying to make a dress with a muslin test.   The neckline design  goes straight across and dips into a 2 in. “V” in the center…..but it doesn’t hug my body close enough…it  seem like I can pinch out a small amount  on either side of the “V” and it will lay flat.    

The front pattern piece can with different  bust cup sizes which made it easy and the bust fits perfectly.   The only problem is the straight across edge that gaps.   I’ve looked in all my books but can’t find my particular problem..    If anyone has any  helpful ideas I would appreciate the help..     Thanks!

San

Replies

  1. marymary | | #1

    San, you may need a smaller size so that the pattern fits through the shoulders and upper front better.  You may have to alter the bust area, or use the part of the pattern that already fits your bust.  Is it a multi-sized pattern?

    1. San | | #2

      Neckline Gap

       Hi Mary,             It is a multi-size.....Vogue V8612.        I cut on the 16 size using the " C"  cup pattern provided....I lowered the bust  point and dart by cutting it  out and moving it....I also lowered the dress shaping dart below ..widened the hips to fit  and  sewn up  the bust and darts  fits good in muslin.     Do you think if I take the apart the  facing  at the  neckline  and find the size 14 line      I traced and cut on that  and sew it back together it might fit???  

      The sleeve is a separate piece that attaches to the back (which is higher than the front)at  the  shoulder seam .... it is slightly pleated at the front  and attaches to the front of the dress....at the straight across neckline.    I don't know if the sleeve has multi-sizing also.   I'm wondering if I cut the dress front, do I need to  narrow the sleeve slightly also?

      Thanks for responding!

      1. marymary | | #3

        San, that is a lovely pattern.  I had not looked at it when I answered the first time.  I understand your problem, because I have narrow shoulders and always have the same problem.  For me, anything above the bottom of the armhole has to be at least one size smaller. 

        The front bodice is basically the same as a strapless bodice.  The "sleeves" that come over your shoulders are just very wide straps.  If you think of it that way, you might have a better idea of how to address the gaping.  Maybe if you move the "straps" in toward the center you can reduce the gaping.  Since it is a multi-size pattern, there should be different sizes for the sleeves.  Yes, I would take it apart and use the smaller size for the area above the bottom of the armhole.

        It is always so hard to help from a distance, so if I am not making sense, tell me.  It is good that you are making a muslin.  Keep track of what you do and don't hesitate to write directly on your garment.  It will help you later when you work on the fashion fabric. 

        1. San | | #4

          That's a good way to think of the bodice as a strapless....it makes good sense, thanks!         And I checked the sleeve pattern and it does have a 14 cutting line,...that will  also change the placement dots to match up the bodice piece  and hopefully fix my problem!     I'm getting my seam ripper ready to take the muslin apart!

          I think I shall also trim down the back sections......when I was trying it on my hubby said it had a horizontal line that looked puffy.   He pinched it out for me and pinned it....it is approx. 1/2" in the center back, tappering out to the side seams....and about 91/2 inches down from the back neck seam.             ( I had also shortened the back length on the pattern 1 in. when I first may my pattern adjustments because I am short waisted......which is why I cannot find a store bought dress that fits me correctly and is the reason I am sewing one).       Do you think trimming the back might fix the puffiness in the upper back?   

          Thanks Mary.

  2. San | | #5

    No Gap Neckline

    Hi Mary,    I am happy as a clam!    I ripped out the sleeve piece and front facing,  ironed everything smooth,  re-cut on the 14 lines, and   re-drew   the  markings.........               I also re-cut out the back sleeve cut-out area.                 I sewed it all back together, pressed, tried it on and, hooray!  the necline is laying perfect now!  and...the puff in the back is gone too!!!       Thank you for your great advice!!!   

    I'm not quite sure if the back sleeve area is good because it gets sewn and finished when the lining is attached....and I have only made the muslin.     Right now it fits closely....but do you think once the 5/8th seam allowance gets sewn  with the lining and turned it will be slightly larger??   if so, I think it will fit just right.      

       Do you think the lining makes a dress a lot smaller?    I have a little ease right now....and the shape of the dress looks good cause it actually fits me!                 My fabric is a print, which is on both sides...the back is shiney almost like a satin back crepe but I dont think it is.     Is a lining really necessary?...but then how would I finish the back sleeve edge...?

    I can't wait to start my dress!   thanks again!

    1. User avater
      JunkQueen | | #6

      That is indeed a lovely dress, and I hope you post your finished product for us to see. 

      1. San | | #7

        Hi all,

        I am still working on my dress!!  ....the neck facing on front is a little mushy  and I haven't yet cut or understitched it yet....it seems a little bit gappy right now.......I should have used a heavier interfacing and now want to re=apply an additional interfacing  but  I'm not sure if I should apply directly over my previous stitching....I posted the question in the Fitting forum.

        The neckline fit better in muslin and but is not as good as I hoped in my garment.   Also I had to narrow the sleeve, and raise it up at the shoulder cause it was too big.....now that causes the armhole to be a little tighter than I'd like,  and so I am trying to make some adjustments but it's taking a long time......I want to finish so I can wear it on July 9 to a wedding!

        San    

            

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