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Straightening front/fly and shape waistband

cecine | Posted in General Discussion on

Hi all of you – Here my dilemma. As I’m new to sewing pattern I’d like to know if  someone can help me with this 2 topics: What is the best way to strainghened the front/fly after lenghening the crotch lenght  (is there a method) and  I’m sewing pattern kwik sew #3193 (jeans). I’m doing the XS  but the straight waistband does’nt fit well at the back (there’s  a large gap) the waistband is 29″and  my waist is 25″ is it possible the change the waistband for a contoured waistband and how to do it. Thank you

Cecine

Replies

  1. stillsuesew | | #1

    I don't understand why lengthening the crotch length would affect the fly front.  Are you trying to take in excess at the waist at the center front.?   It would be better to take in at the side seams or center back or increase the darts if it has darts. You can also shorten the waistband to fit the pants.

    1. cecine | | #2

      Thank you for helping me. What I mean was the front crotch length was to short so I have to lengtened on the lengtening line and then the center front/fly seamline is not straight how to smooth out the center front seamline. The other thing the waist pattern is 29" and my waist is 25" so  I have a big gap at the back with a straight waistband and I'd like to change for a contoured waistband, is there a possibility for making one and how.  I have altering the waist  for 26" but still there a gap at the back. Thank you for your help

  2. Palady | | #3

    Am I reading you correctly that your goal is to raise the enitre wasitband?

    Looking at the pattern, & thank you for posting the #  & company, I see it as a low slung sort of waist.  is this how the envelope describes it.?    if this is your goal, it might mean realigning the tissue panel. 

    I too am having a bit of a bother understnading your feeling the need to "straighten the fly front".  To my knowing of doing slacks, adjsuting the crotch length should be able to be done w/o affecting the fly front.

    A back gap should be able to be altered by making darts in the tissue pattern between the seam lines.     MO, you'd need to make 2 darts, or maybe 3, for the amount your wanting to eliminate.  You specify wanting to remove 4".  Have you considered ease?   Do you plan to wear a belt with the jeens?    The style is w/o, so it makes adifference.

    I'm guessing you've already made a pair of jeens from the pattern and are dissatisfied with the result..

    nepa

  3. stillsuesew | | #4

    I agree that lengthening the crotch length should not affect the straight line of the front.  If you lengthen that then you are probably lengthening all  of it and then you have the extra around your little waist, when the pattern is designed to rest  well below your waist.  You will need to make darts and/or take it in at the back and side seams until it lays around your waist the way you want it to.  I would apply the zipper to the front seam and then pin out  the excess until you get the fit you want.  You might actually find it easier to try them on inside out so when you pin out darts they will be already on the inside.  If you have top stitched seams already, you may have to take them out  several inches so you can take in those seams also.  Don't give up.

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