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Suggestions for creating jacket

foxfyreutk | Posted in General Sewing Info on

I am making a Hawaiian Classics Happi Jacket (sort of a karate style jacket) and need some advice on construction. I’ve chosen a gold & cream  herringbone tweed wool silk with a contrasting chocolate brown doeskin for the front band and tie belt. The pattern is unlined, but I would like to line it. Would the “bag” lining as described in the Threads online be appropriate?

The sleeves are not set in, but drio shoulder and sewn on, either plain or with a cuff. I am not making the cuff. There is NO MENTION of interfacing, so where would it be best to apply interfacing and what kind? This is a very soft, fluid, comfortable style coat, so I don’t want to OVER construct, but I do want it to look professional.

Thanks, Marlene


  1. ShannonG4d | | #1


    Do you have a link to the pattern?  Or a photo where we can see what it looks like?

    AS for interfacing the cuff, you could use something very soft and fluid, like Touch Of Gold.  YOu could apply one layer, see if that meets your expectations, and if you need more add another layer.  Or, use a sew-in interfacing of layers of silk organza. 

    As for bagging a lining....I'd like to reserve comment until I see what the jacket looks like.


    1. foxfyreutk | | #3

      Sorry! Should have attached .jpg last night. I have now.


  2. Elisabeth | | #2

    Using the underlining-as-lining method might suit the simple style of the happi jacket keeping the lining in place. For each pattern piece the fashion fabric is sewed to the lining right sides together at appropriate edges then turned right side out. The garment is assembled treating the two layers as one and has finished edges.

    I'm probably not explaining it very well, so sorry. In Easy Guide to Sewing Linings, Connie Long describes the process for pants. She also has an article here http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00011.asp in the same section you found bag lining.

    1. foxfyreutk | | #4

      I should have also included a scan of my fabrics when I provided the picture of the pattern. Well, here they are. The jacket fabric is silk wool (I just LOVE the hand on this fabric!!), doeskin in a very deep, rich chocolate for band and tie (and enough for a coordinating skirt), and lining (a bit brighter gold than shows in the scan). This is a b'day present for my daughter who was 36 on July 27th. She picked out fabrics (w/much direction from Mom) and will be this fall's upscale work outfit.

      Traditionally, this jacket is made from a loose, soft cotton with no linings, no facings or interfacing. I see no reason it can't go upscale. The hand of the silk I selected would be comparable to the traditional cotton. This is an ultra simple pattern with only a front, back, lower sleeve, band/collar, and pockets. I don't want to over-complicate or engineeer it. But, I do want a finished, professional look, one where you are proud to have someone see the INSIDE! <grin> Any help regarding lining and interfacing would be appreciated.


      1. MegVT | | #5


        I vote for the underlining technique.  I've done that before, and have been quite pleased with the outcome.  Right now I'm in the process of making an Irish linen jacket.  I'm underliing it in muslin, to which I've fused very lightweight interfacing.  The linen doesn't need much more support.  Pin I'll pin the muslin to the linen and stitch them as one.  I think I'll do a Hongkong finish for the seam edges to keep from having a ravelled mess, since the linen is a coarser weave and will fray.  If you think the neckline area needs additional interfacing, you may fuse it directly to the underlining.

        Do you have scraps of fabric to try doing a sample?


        1. ShannonG4d | | #6

          There is one other option, but I'm hesitant to recommend it for this particular project.  I wrote an article for Threads about using a stitch and flip underlining technique which completely encases the seams.  It's in issue 110, I believe.  I'd probably make the 1/4 inch topstitching seams a bit narrower, and be sure the lining fabric is thin and drapey.


      2. SewNancy | | #7

        Depending on the feel of the tweed, I think that I would line it.  The fabric needs the seams finished  and Hong Kong binding would take longer than lining the jacket.  Also, if this is a fall winter item it will slide on over woolens better. 


  3. Spanky | | #8


    I have been using nylon mesh net for years as an interfacing in jackets that I want a supported but soft look. This is the large hole net with just a little stiffnes. My mom used it to make pot scrubbers also.


    1. edgy | | #9


      This is a new idea for me. How does using nylon mesh compare to a fusible tricot interfacing? And where do you get your nylon mesh?



      1. Spanky | | #10

        I stopped using most fusible long ago. The exception is the Armor weft( not sure of spelling)I found that I was dissappointed with the results most every time and decided it was not worth the trouble.

         I get the net in any fabric store that sells bridal supplies. It is used under childrens skirts to make them stand out.This is not as stiff as crinolin but not as soft as tulle. I don't know the exact name on the bolt.

        It has never been a problem and all of my students love it .We use it for collars,front interfacing and also waistbands of light weight fabrics. It washes beautifully.


        1. edgy | | #11

          Thanks, Spanky -- I'm going to look for it and give it a try.


          1. Spanky | | #12

            If you don't find it, I can mail you a sample.

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