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Tailored Coat

irenaj | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi friends and sewers,
I have had fun reading all the wonderful information in this gathering and now would be grateful for advice from the wealth of knowledge available among you.
I wish to make a tailored coat for my daughter.
The pattern gives instructions for 4 front pieces -2 of which are the facings,to be cut as 4 separate pieces.What I would like to know is it OK to cut the facing and front as one piece on the fold to eliminate bulk or is there another good reason for cutting separate pieces apart from economy of fabric with the “separate” method?
Keep up the good work and thanks for the opportunity to connect with so many interesting people.


  1. meg | | #1

    The separate pieces for the front of the coat is to accomodate several reasons.  In addition to your thoughts on economy, you might want to use a different fabric for the facing piece - either for fashion reasons or fabric weight issues.  A separate facing pattern piece also allows for a specific shape for interfacing to be cut.  If the front edge of the coat is not cut on the straight of the grain, you won't be able to turn the facing to the inside of the coat - is there some flare to the cut of the coat?  Also, the seam placement at the front edge gives substance to the shape of the coat, more than interfacing alone can provide. 

    I'm sure that others can think of other reasons!  At the end of the day, however, the coat will be of your making/design.   Perhaps you will want to try a 'muslin' in a lesser expensive fabric to give your ideas a trial run.

  2. Teaf5 | | #2

    I agree with Meg that you should probably cut the facings separately.  I once did what you are considering, but the folded-back facings didn't match the outer fabric exactly.  If I had cut them separately, there would've been a little "wiggle room" at the seamline to use, but with the fold, I had to re-cut the neckline of the facing instead to make it match up. 

    Especially on soft wools, that front facing/garment seams makes a nice, firm edge that you can't get with a folded facing.  You just need to trim and grade the seams to eliminate bulk.

    1. irenaj | | #3

      Dear Teaf5 and Meg,
      Thankyou for taking the time to reply to my query. I think you are quite correct in suggesting to keep with the traditional approach and have a seam at the centre rather than a fold.
      Thanks for your input , its great to have contact with others who have experience in what you intend to do that can save time and frustration by their experiences,Thankyou for sharing.
      regards irenaj

  3. mem | | #4

    I always use a stay tape in the front facing seam . This makes sure that the front stays nice and sharp and that it doesnt stretch with the weight of the heavier fabric used in coats.

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