I have recently discovered David Coffin’s book on “Shirtmaking” and have been devouring all his recommendations for making my husband a shirt. The book is fabulous with detailed descriptions and photos as well as user friendly. I must admit it has helped me become obsessed with making a really well fitting shirt.
After reading about proper fit I had my husband try on multiple dress shirts and found that even the shirts made by a local tailor were not fit properly according to the books guidelines. I have now followed the books instructions and have successfully fit the shirt with the exception of the sleeve. I am finding that the sleeve has too much fabric at the bicep area. I changed the sleeve pattern by altering the sleeve gusset point, but the fabric folds still seem too bulky. I have taken 3 photos to send as I need advice to get a better fit. The photos show my test fabric shirt. The comfort of the sleeve and the fit of the shirt front and back are fine. I am wondering if I should lower the arm scythe to remove the folds. Any suggestions are welcome.