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Transfering seamlines

dilly_dally | Posted in The Archives on

Hi all, I have probably asked this before – killed that brain cell.
I looked through the archives and can’t find this article:

It had to do with transferring seam lines off the edge of things like collars, cuffs…anyone remember what issue that was!




  1. starzoe | | #1

    Most of the time it is not necessary to transfer seam lines. I find that a stitch guide on the machine is sufficient. However, there are times when seamlines need to be transferred. Several ways: iron them into the piece (fold back the s/a and iron); basting stitches (hand or machine) just short of the actual seamline; temporary marking pen; washout marker; chalk; sometimes even pin marks will even work 'tho that depends on the fabric.

    1. dilly_dally | | #2

      Hmm, maybe I wasn't being clear. I am talking about moving the seam itself, from the edge into the center of the pattern. The former seam lines become folds......

  2. cafms | | #3

    Is this the article you are looking for?

    Sleek and Slim Tailored DetailsBy Kenneth KingLearn how to eliminate buildup in your seam allowancesSeptember 2008 (Issue # 138)

    This is from Sewing Muse website http://www.sewingmuse.org/   

    Nancy Zieman also did this technique years ago so if you have any of her books you might find it there, too.  Really does work nice.

    1. dilly_dally | | #4

      Dang, that isn't it either, but the site you sent me to is great. I haven't found the issue yet, but will keep pokin' around.ThanksSaragrace

      1. Josefly | | #8

        The technique of moving the end seams of a collar to the center of the collar comes from Louise Cutting, and was demonstrated in the Threads DVD "Threads Insider Industry Techniques", Volume 1. For a time parts of that video could be seen here in the online promotion of the DVD. In this technique, the ends of the collar pattern are placed on the fold of the fabric, and a seamline is placed in the center back of the collar, reducing bulk in the points and end edges of the collar. Is this the technique you are thinking of?

        1. dilly_dally | | #9

          We are getting closer! That sounds like the technique. I have a sample I did years ago on a small pocket flap. For the life of me I can't see how I did it. I don't recall cutting and pasting anything anywhere....ooooooh this is frustrating!Sg

          1. Teaf5 | | #10

            I searched the last two years of back issues (thank you, university library!) but couldn't find it; I never saw the DVD, so maybe it's repeated there. Complicating my recall is the fact that I read several different sewing and craft magazines, so I cannot even be sure I saw the article in Threads!If you post more details about or a photo of what you're working on and what you want to change, you'll probably get some very good instruction from all the experts on this forum.

          2. dilly_dally | | #12

            Wowsa - That is dedication! Thank you for your time looking. JJGG has it basically. I will look at the pattern I did a long time ago and the present project and see if I can recreate it....If I can't get it to work, I will post photos and get some help...it is SO weird though because I have never seen the DVD or Nancy's book...so I know I had it from Threads. I have even gone back at least twice (this would make the third time) to refresh myself before doing it.We will have to have a virtual party if we ever find it. Woo Hoo!Sg (aka dillydally)

          3. User avater
            JunkQueen | | #13

            I ran across that technique last night as I randomly read from my library of sewing books. It is in Nancy Zieman's The Busy Woman's Sewing Book. She calls it Magic Collar. I can scan it and email it later today if you'd like.

            Also, I ran across the technique shown in the new Threads -- the neckline trim that looks like bows -- in another book I have, but there it was done in white satin. Very different effect from the print material in the Threads article. Along those lines, it's fun to see some of the finished products in the wonderful prints available to us today, but seeing the technique done is a solid light color makes it easier for me to see. Like that gorgeous yellow blouse on the cover. It was so easy to see the details.

          4. Teaf5 | | #14

            I found an article about "add a seam," where design interest was added by putting seams in unusual places.  Was that the same or a different article?  It was within the last two years.  

            Taking a short walk to the library to look through the past issues of Threads is a nice lunch-hour escape from work for me, so having a "quest" is a good thing!  The recent issues are unbound, so it's easy to see the titles on the spine; the older ones--all the way back to Vol 1 Iss 1--are hardbound but easily accessible, too.

          5. cafms | | #15

            If you get to the library as suggested above look at the article I sent you in message 4 above.  In it Kenneth King shows how to do the flap for a jacket pocket by moving the seams off the edges of the flap to the under side.  Lots of pictures and directions.  It is issue 138, September 2008 pages 36-41.  "Sleek & Slim Tailored Details".

          6. dilly_dally | | #16

            Don't 'cha hate it when you post the answer and people just miss it. I don't know what article I was looking at when I replied to your #4 - because this is the technique I was looking for. I know when I saw it the first time it was at least 4 or 6 years ago, but who cares!!! Thank you very much! Saragrace (who is feeling like a bonehead...)

  3. Teaf5 | | #5

    You mean the one where you add to the top piece of a collar, say, and take away from the under piece so that edge is a sharp and thin fold and the seam line and the bulk of the seam allowances is on the under part of the collar? It was called "moving a seam" or "rotating a seam" and showed a few different places that could benefit from having the seam in a different location?

    1. dilly_dally | | #6

      Yes! That is the one! But I have searched in the index for the mag, and at The sewing muse with many combinations of seam, transfer, rotate, move....to no avail. If you figure it out, please let me know!Thanks,Saragrace

      1. Teaf5 | | #7

        I remember the article; now I'll have to work on remembering when I saw it!

      2. jjgg | | #11

        I don't remember seeing this in Threads, but I know Nancy Zieman has this in one of her books. You make a copy of the top collar, slice it in the middle - add seam allowances where you slice it, take off the seam allowances at the sides and tape the 2 halves to the sides of the collar. To sew it, you sew up the center back seam, this will be the under collar, then sew the top edge and turn, now attach to the neckline. It does make the points on the collar much thinner and neater.

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