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Trim for notched shawl collar jacket

Beanhi | Posted in Fabric and Trim on

I am working on a jacket with a notched shawl collar. Similar to St. John’s jacket (see link)

http://shop.nordstrom.com/S/2882271?Category=&Search=True&SearchType=keywordsearch&keyword=st.+john+in+All+Categories&origin=searchresults

What type of trim should I use to get a similar look? I was leaning towards a double-fold bias packaged trim but didn’t see any in a satin material.

What is the best way to get the trim smoothly in and around the notched area? The jacket will have a facing/upper collar if that makes a difference.

Thanks,
Nhi

Replies

  1. mem | | #1

    That is a very smart jacket. In Palmer Pletches book on Couture Sewing they have a whole section on sewing edges like this and it isnt at all done in the way that you would think. I would strongly recommend that you have a look at this .  The binding is sewn onto the edges befor the seams between jacket and facing are sewn . I cant remember all the details as I dont have the book with me right now . Its  method that Chanel used . You also need to steam and mould the bias trim befor you sew it . I would make the trim out of satin and cut it witha rotary cutter .

    1. Beanhi | | #4

      Is this the book you're referring to? Written by Roberta Carrhttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0935278281/sr=8-1/qid=1154830571/ref=pd_bbs_1/102-4937065-7875307?ie=UTF8Wanted to make sure before I purchase it.

      1. mem | | #5

        yes it is

  2. kayrosie | | #2

    Hi, I love the jacket, good luck.  I would love to see your finished project.  I agree you should use satin and cut with rotary cutter.  

    1. BetsyV | | #3

      I belong to another message board, too, and recently one of the members posted a photo of a tailored jacket project. She had "trimmed" along the princess seams vertically up the middle of the front pieces, over the shoulders, and down the back along the seams as well. She may have come around the along the hem too, to make a closed "circle, I don't remember exactly. (She also embroidered one of the sleeves from sleeve cap to hem, but that isn't the relevant bit here!).

      She used her fashion fabric, a wool tweed but it looked pretty lightweight, cut bias strips, and used the wrong side of the fabric to contrast with the right side. The wrong side was darker, but the same tweedy pattern was evident but subtler. She made a bias tape out of the strips and steamed the curves into it to match her lines. It really looked fantastic.

      Another idea: I have a RTW  suit I bought last spring - a silk/rayon tweed, and they used the same idea as above (bias strips of the same fabric) to trim the edges as in your link to that St John's suit. The strips are same side up, not wrong side, though.  Additionally, they had used an iridescent chiffon for the upper lapels and collar and the pocket flaps. It really looks sharp - I want to copy it someday myself!

      Betsy

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