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Two different Biases

PaulCarroll | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hi, I would like to know about which Bias direction your supposed to
use as there are two different 45 degree diagnol biases! They seem to
have different stretch for different fabrics!
[email protected]


  1. User avater
    Becky-book | | #1

    Most fabric will not be different, bias is bias, only consideration is the print or plaid.


  2. user-51823 | | #2

    the 2 biases should only behave differently if the warp and the weft are 2 different fibers or thread styles, like with silk dupioni and some others. i would say if the stretch does vary, choose whichever bias you want but buy enough extra fabric to cut all the pattern pieces on the same one, as you won't be able to swing them around the other way and "nest" them together to save yardage.

  3. stitchintime | | #3

    I am no bias expert but according to Charles Kleibacker who is:

    "Fabric cut on the bias is not symmetrical. No matter how balanced or similar the vertical and horizontal threads look on any fabric, they always drape differently because they were subject to different tensions during the weaving process. A center front seam is needed to create identical draped folds on both halves. The pattern is laid out and marked on 2 layers of fashion fabric, pinned face to face, and thus mirrored for perfect symmetry. Charles omits a center front seam only if he wants to create an asymmetrical bias garment."

    From Threads, Issue 99, Feb/Mar 2002 "Hands-on with Kleibacker" by David Page Coffin


    1. MaryinColorado | | #5

      Thanks for the great info!

      1. stitchintime | | #6

        Something about the question just rang a bell in my brain and I remember reading about it in connection with Charles Kleibacker. All I had to do was consult the Magazine Index here on the site. If you have the issue, you should go back and read the whole article.

        Edited 2/28/2007 4:09 pm ET by stitchintime

        1. MaryinColorado | | #7

          I am gad that you found it.  I gave most of my Thread's collection to my Daughter in Law.  Now I plan to seek that issue out.  I love the look of drapey clothing but have to be careful because I am under 5' tall.  Hope to make some spring/summer clothing that will be attractive on my "mature" figure.  Thanks again for the information.  Mary

  4. HeartFire2 | | #4

    You are very astute to notice this. Yes, there is a difference and it has to do with the warp and weft threads in the fabric.The warp (lengthwise grain) threads are put on the loom under high tension - they are stretched tight, the weft (crosswise grain) is woven onto the warp but if you can imagine in our mind, weaving back and forth across the warp, you cant put it under a lot of tension or it will distort the lengthwise threads (pull them in and pucker it up). This is most noticeable when pressing damp fabric, if you press on the crosswise grain, you can stretch and distort the fabric very easily, but if you press with the lengthwise grain, there is no distortion.So, getting to your question, I don't really have an answer!!! LOL!! I'm not sure it would matter on most fabrics as long as you are consistent. Charles Kleibacker is really fabulous and with the silky charmuse like draping he does it does make a difference. He's got a great website. the second link is a tutorial of sorts on a bias skirthttp://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/kleibacker/kleibacker2.htmhttp://www.fashionschool.kent.edu/kleibacker/techniques/AAINDEX.htmEdited 2/27/2007 7:54 pm ET by HeartFire2

    Edited 2/27/2007 7:55 pm ET by HeartFire2

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