Replies

1. 
   starzoe | May 06, 2008 12:21am | #1

   Maybe the patterns you are choosing have a lot of ease. Most paper patterns from the big 4 (or is that 5?) have the actual measurements marked on the pattern itself. You can measure the pattern pieces just to see how much ease is allowed. Many of the patterns now have an enormous amount of ease, I find.

2. 
   Teaf5 | May 06, 2008 02:47am | #2

   American pattern companies generally seem to have way too much fabric in the upper bodice area, which then makes everything else way too big.  Sometimes I wonder if they've ever looked at a real woman, or if they believe those dressmaker dummies are the way most of us are built!

   If you search the archives of this forum for "fitting a bodice" or "fitting," or even "fitting prominent bust," you'll find a lot of good discussions and specific tips for the particular area you are concerned about.

   Just to give you a ballpark, measurements put me right at a pattern size 18, but I need to use the size 10 cutting lines to fit my shoulders and upper chest, the size 20 or 22 bodice front side seams to accommodate my full bust (but a size 12 back bodice), and a size 10 sleeve armscye and sleeve to fit my slim arms.

   I use a multi-size pattern, lop off an inch off the outside of each shoulder seam, and then use my waxed-paper-pattern-from-well-fitted top to modify the pattern.  Essentially, I use the new pattern for styling details but super-impose it onto a pattern I know that fits me well.