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underlining cashmere jacket

Jane_O'Neill | Posted in The Archives on

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I am making a cashmere blazer and am underlining
the jacket with very lightweight batiste. Is it necessary to underline the lapel facings and collar? How about the patch pckets? I have chosen to underline the body of the jacket to hide construction details.

Replies

  1. Bill_Stewart | | #1

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    Jane, while it is not absolutely necessary to underline the facings and collars, doing so will keep the same "hand" as the rest of the jacket. The lapel really should be underlined - it helps support the fabric and keeps down abrasion between the two layers. Only the top collar should be underlined - assuming you are using canvas on the undercollar for shaping and retention. ( I do hope you preshrank the fabricS so you get no suprises when you have it cleaned.) The underlining also helps pressing imprints from seam allowances from showing through, although cashmere should only be steamed and brushed. Hope this helps. Bill

    1. Jane_O'Neill | | #2

      *Bill-Thanks for the info. Yes, I am using hair canvas for interfacing. Everything is preshrunk. Years ago I failed to preshrink wool and was left with some very short pants. I never made that mistake again.

      1. Ghillie_C | | #3

        *I had a bad fright preshrinking cashmere recently. It shrank unevenly and bubbled. Also, although I had been careful not to let the iron touch the surface I could see ghostly iron shaped patches on the surface - fortunately on the back.Remembering the Threads article on pressing cloths I steamed it again, this time with an old blanket over the ironing board to spread the steam and a wool pressing cloth over the cashmere. It worked!Incidentally I have made a slightly japanese style loose fitting informal jacket with lightly quilted front edge and cuffs.

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