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Underlinng/Interfacing Question

Elaray | Posted in General Discussion on

I’m making a jacket from a loosely woven bouclé. I’m planning to underline the jacket to give it more stability. The jacket is also lined. The front calls for a full interfacing. Do I fuse the interfacing to the fashion fabric or to the underlining. Does it make a difference?


I sew, therefore I am


  1. jjgg | | #1

    You need to do tests on scraps of the fabric. What type of interfacing are you going to use? is it going to change the hand of the boucle? I'm not sure you really need to underline it if you are going to fuse interfacing to it. What fabric were you planing on using for the underlining? and what for the lining? What style of jacket are you making?

    1. Elaray | | #2

      The jacket is a princess seamed cardigan style. I have broadcloth for the underlining and typical silky lining fabric. The bouclé is loosely woven and an underling will add stability. You can see details on my blog: url is below.http://anothercreation.blogspot.com/2007/12/next-bwof-1106-132-137.html

      1. jjgg | | #3

        Your fabric is beautiful. Here's what I would do, I would play around with different fusible interfacing's to see what I would like and skip the underlining. That is unless you want to do the "Chanel" thing and quilt the lining to the fabric. An underlining will help support the fashion fabric, but it is just attached at the seam lines and there is the possibility of the fabric sagging in the body of the jacket. If you fuse it, I would do the entire jacket, and would try something like fusi-knit as that would remain very soft. I'm not a fan of fusible interfacing's, but fusi knit is one that I will use.If you do the Chanel thing, then you skip all interfacing's and underlinings. the fabric remains very soft and 'cardigan like'. The quilting attaches the lining to the fashion fabric and keeps it from stretching out of shape.

      2. rodezzy | | #4

        Pretty jacket pattern.  Love the style, looking forward to seeing the finished project.  I believe you are getting very good answers to your questions, so being a person who doesn't do a lot of clothes sewing, I can't advice you.  Keep up the good work, and you will be original and beautiful with every garment you make.

  2. fabricmaven | | #5

    I read your question about the boucle and it seems to me that if you use a fusible knit interfacing that the process of applying it will flatten the boucle and possibly stretch it so that you have lost the soft hand. I would use a crepe back satin and quilt it to the boucle. Then you wouldn't need to underline and then line the jacket. You would only need to but a strip of stable seam tape in the shoulder seams so that theydo not stretch and a small strip of stable interfacing in the area where you place the buttonholes and buttons.

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