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unlined Jackets

busybee | Posted in General Sewing Info on

Hallo Everyone,  I am about to make an unlined jacket for the first time. I have always lined them.  I,m sure ” Threads ” must have done an article on finishing an unlined jacket etc but I cant find anything in the index.  Its the inside I’m concerned about- I suppose you interface the neck edges and facings as usual  but what about the plastron area ( if the fabric needs a bit of stabilizing?  Can anyone help me please?  Thanks so much  -Winifred


  1. SewNancy | | #1

    Sandra Betzina reccomends buying some extra fabric and cutting two fronts so that you don't get the facing to turn out. I have done this and used the front to cover the side seams. Worked well. you need to cover the shoulder pads if you are using them. If you don't want to make 2 fronts, you can clean finish the facings even in iron on by sewing a 1/4" seam at the outside edges and then turn and iron on the interfacing. Makes a very neat looking edge. Also, I would interface the hem areas so that you get enough support.

    1. busybee | | #2

      Hallo SewNancy - thanks so much for your info- a great help -  any more suggestions please!!   Busybee

      1. mem | | #3


        I would create a lining piece across the shoulders as it helps stablize the shoulder area across the back I have done this and you need to cut a piece including the back neckline The shoulder seams and the back armskye Then cut a bottom edge which clears the two shoulder blades  Making it out of something silky will help to make it to  slip into . Use the smae fabric cut on the cross to bind the seams  You dont need to turn the edges under as its on the cross , just stitch in the ditch with raw edge facing into the jacket.

      2. Teaf5 | | #6

        One of the joys of unlined jackets is their lightness, so I don't do any interlining or extra facing other than that called for in the pattern. However, I like to finish the seam allowances and the edge of the facings with stretchy hem lace in a matching or complementary color so that raggedy edges don't show when I move. One packet usually finishes an entire jacket, and it costs less than two dollars.

  2. solosmocker | | #4

    I like to use Hong Kong seam finish in this situation. I try to use a vivid fabric for the seam finishesso that when I see the inside of the garment I get some joy looking at my unlined jacket. I have used Betzinas technique. It works great but be careful with interfacing. I can make it board-like going across that full facing. I would recommend something softer and lighter than you would normally use for the facing of this garment.

    Just wanted to add that what I am calling a facing in this case is the inside of the double front.

    Edited 3/5/2006 8:52 pm ET by solosmocker

    1. SewNancy | | #5

      Agree on the interfacing. You could layer a heavier interfacing just on the lapel, if you need it.

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