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V Yoke on Front Skirt

birdlady1 | Posted in Patterns on

Hello All!

I need some information on creating a V design yoke on my front skirt pattern. 

I created a pattern piece from my skirt front.  I drew a line starting about 3 1/2 ” down from my centre front waist towards the other end of the skirt pattern and near the end curved the line downwards.  I then place the curved line on the fold material and cut it out and spread it open, it look like the v design.  I then cut out the yoke on my pattern skirt front.  I then placed the yoke on the skirt waist and pinned it.  The only problem is that when I had sewn it, pressed it, trimmed it, etc.  The v yoke did not lay flat on the skirt as it should.  I had to keep pulling the skirt part down to try and flatten the yoke piece.  I showed my teacher and she said that I have incorrect placed the yoke design wrong.  She said I have started from the back curved line of the front skirt and then when I came to the centre front, then curve the line downwards.  I tried several tissues doing this but it just is not coming out looking like a V design.  Can anybody give me some insight into what I may doing wrong?

The picture below is kind of like the one I am trying to create.  The bottom of my skirt does not have gathers and the yoke part attached to the bottom part is a more V shape.  My problem as I stated above is that the V in the middle part does not lay flat and the skirt part sewn to it, trys to ride up towards it.

Does anyone have any suggestions?



 View Image


  1. jjgg | | #1

    I'm not sure I can follow what you did. Can you post a picture of your skirt and of the pattern pieces that you drafted?

  2. Teaf5 | | #2

    It sounds as if you might have two problems, one with the shape of the V and the other with piecing the skirt to the yoke.

    I assume that you are stitching each yoke and skirt bottom together before stitching the side seams? It would be hard to make it smooth if you fully assemble the front and back yokes first and then add the skirt part.

    To get the two sections to lie flat when combined, clip the skirt portion all the way to the seam allowance at the center front or back before you start. If the V is at all curved, make sure to clip to the stitching line every 1/2" or so before stitching.  

    Then starting at the point of the V, stitch to the outside and repeat for the other side, trying not to stretch the fabric at all while you sew. (Stitching from one side seam to the other will also stretch the fabric unevenly.) 

    Press the seam allowances toward the yoke, clip the rest of the seam and grade it.  You will need to clip triangles out of the seam allowances, especially at the point, to remove enough fabric to make it lie flat.

    The point of a V is always difficult to insert into a flat piece.  Try it with two small squares of fabric a few times until you get the hang of it.


    1. birdlady1 | | #3


      I received your e-mails with thanks.

      I thought that may be you might get a better picture of what I am trying to say with pictures of the project skirt.  I spoke to my teacher and she said that I did not need to have that extra centre piece in the back of the skirt.  She said I should cut the centre back and then go from there.  That is what I thought at first but was not too sure.  If I do cut the centre back, in order to have 4 pleats showing as indicated in my pictures, should I cut straight across the skirt and take that bottom piece out?  If so, should I also do that for the other back piece skirt?  Or should I just cut to the middle of the skirt of each and just take out that centre piece?

      Also, as you can see from my front V yoke, where the V is, it is bunching.  What do you think is happening?  I redrew my yoke lines on my pattern where I drew my yoke line where the curve of my front skirt is and then went downards toward the centre back.  When I cut out the tissue paper, it still looks like a V design.  I thought that may be before when I drew it the opposing way, that is why the V yoke and skirt were not laying flat.

      I appreciate your help.  Here is the pictures which I hope you received.   I am not too sure about attaching from my computer.


      1. starzoe | | #4

        Did you include seam allowances in the yoke and skirt front? It seems ####strange question, but that just could be the cause of the bunching, especially if you have clipped the curves as earlier suggested.

      2. jjgg | | #5

        It looks to me like the skirt front and the yoke front where they attach together are different shapes.I'm not sure what the back piece is. is that a center panel sewn in between side backs? and the pleats are sewn to the center panel?

        1. birdlady1 | | #6


          With respect to the front yoke.  We were taught in class that if you create a front yoke on your front skirt, you must trace that yoke pattern to another tissue paper and then cut it out then close the darts.  After that you cut the original yoke out from the original pattern piece.  You then cut your fabric out and close the darts and then pin the yoke piece to your skirt front at the part that had been cut off on the original. 

          With respect to the pleats in the back.  I was not sure what I should do in order to attach the pleats to the skirt back.  At first I thought that if I didn't add that extra back piece panel and then sew up the back seams, the pleats would not lay out straight but be bunched up.  My teacher said I don't need that panel.  She said to cut the centre back of the pattern and sew the pleats into it.  But I don't know (she didn't elabrate further) if I should cut right across from the whole back pattern piece and take off that piece and then pin the pleats to it.  If so, should I also cut the second back pattern piece as well?  If this is correct, then should I pin two pleats on one side of the back pattern piece and pin the other two on the other side and then sew them all across?

          I hope to hear from you soon.



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