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Vertical Darts on Jacket copy

lferg | Posted in Fitting on

Hi all,
I am making a copy of an RTW fitted jacket. The vertical darts are off-grain in the original and in the muslin copy. The point of the darts is closer to center front than the base of the dart, so slant from top of dart to bottom is from center to side seam. I want to make the jacket out of a herringbone fabric and am afraid that the vertical texture in the fabric would make the off-grain darts obvious. Qustion – do I adjust the top of the darts, bottom of the darts, or both? The front has two darts on each side, the closest to center front falls 1″ below and just to the center front side of the bust point, the outer dart falls 1.25″ below and approx 1/2″ to the outside of the bust point. The RTW fits well, but I have usually placed dart points just below the bust point, not inside (toward the center front.) I am considering moving the point of the center most dart away from the center just enough to fall directly below the bust point which will straighten the dart to the grain as well.
I am concerned that if I do the same with the second (outside) darts that the points will fall too far away from the bust and cause problems in the area between the botom of the armscye and bust area. I know I should be able to make the adjustment in my muslin and decide, but I can’t tell the difference much between leaving both points in place and straightening by moving the bases toward center and/or moving the point of the center dart and the base of the outer dart – except that when I do this the darts are closer together. But I get a poof of muslin if I move both dart points outward that shows up in the area between the bust and bottom of the armscythe.
So to try to summarize this rather rambling post – I would prefer to just move the base of the darts, but is it OK if the center darts do not line up with the bust points?



  1. kayl | | #1

    The general method of moving darts is this:

    1) redraw the original dart (to the bust point, for a bust dart --

    the dart just gets longer, but no wider).

    2) close the original dart (which will make the pattern paper

    assume a 3-D shape)

    3) cut the new dart(s) any place you'd like, and let the pattern

    flatten back out again

    4) draw the new dart(s)... back the dart's point off the actual bust

    point some amount... less for a smaller cup size than a larger one.

    The closer you get to the "real" bust point with the tip of a dart, the pointier the look is -- the farther from the bust point the

    tip of the sewn dart is, the rounder the look is.

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