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Very high standing collars, pat. alts?

User avatar
AlainaZ | Posted in Fitting on

Hi everyone,

I’m hoping someone more experienced with pattern drafting can help me with this problem.

A client is having me do a jacket with a very high standing (mandarin) collar. She wants it 3″ at the throat.

I am concerned that the back of the head will push the collar down in back. Does anyone know how this would be solved in couture? Would the back of the collar be narrowed?

Thanks,
Alaina

Replies

  1. beo | | #1

    My first response is to grade the collar toward the back.  However, clients can be rather set until they are shown, so you just might want to do the 3 " collar, baste it to the jacket, and have her come by for a fitting and decision.

  2. jjgg | | #2

    I hope you are making a muslin first, and then figure it from there.

  3. lou19 | | #3

    Hi,

    I have a chinese style dress with a high mandarin collar. It measures 2 3/4 inches at the back. Although the dress is light silk the collar is stiff...canvas? I don't wear the dress much, the collar stands up alright but I find it a little uncomfortable.

    Years ago, I made a wedding dress for a lovely lady who had a large  birth mark on her neck, she insisted on a very high collar. I made several test versions. I was disappointed in the end because I thought she made the collar too high and it made the dress look too severe and unflattering.

    Louise

     

  4. alotofstitches | | #4

    I agree with BEO, you definitely need her to try on the 3" collar sample having it heavily interfaced on both the collar and the collar facing.  For it to stand up correctly without wrinkles you may need to add some boning to the facing in both the back and front.

  5. User avater
    artfulenterprises | | #5

    One of my favorite tricks is to shape the back of a mandarin collar with a soft dip at center back. It allows you to have a high, cozy or dramatic look in the front and still keeps the collar from causing your hair to look unkempt and feel annoying in the back. It's also very couture and kinda sexy. And who wouldn't like a little of that??

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